Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. shopping sights transport 117 walks 121 Blue Mosque 12, 67-8, 12, 67, 191

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1 222 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd See also separate subindexes for: Index 5 EATING P224 P000 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P000 P ENTERTAINMENT P000 P226 7 SHOPPING P226 P SLEEPING SPORTS & P000 ACTIVITIES P226 4 SLEEPING P226 A accommodation 15, 170-8, see also Sleeping subindex language Ahmed Afif Paşa Yalı 161 Ahmet I, Sultan 68 Ahmet III, Sultan 66 Ahmet Hamdi Tanpınar Literature Museum Library 79 air travel Akbank Art Centre 128 Akbank Jazz Festival 25 Akbank Short Film Festival 24 Akın, Fatih 199 Aksaray 95 Alpgezmen, Filiz 199 Ambler, Eric 198 ambulance 207 Anadolu Hisarı 160 Anadolu Kavağı 163 Anadolu Kavağı Kalesi 163 antiques 104 Aqueduct of Valens 97 Arab Mosque 120 architecture area codes 210 Arnavutköy 157 art 22 art galleries 22-3, 28 ARTER 125 Ataman, Kutluğ 199 Atatürk Cultural Centre 128 Atik Valide Mosque 151, 22 ATMs 209 Aya İrini 13, 75 Aya Sofya 7, 50-6, 54, 6, 45, 50, 55, 76 Sights 000 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Aya Sofya Tombs 72 Aynalıkavak Pavilion 166 Ayvansaray 166 B Bahriye Nezareti 165 Balık Pazarı 129, 122 bargaining 17, 40 Basilica Cistern 11, 26, 71, 11, 71 Bazaar District 46-7, , , activities 105 drinking & nightlife food 87, highlights shopping 87, sights 87, transport 87 walks 96 bazaars 9 Bebek 157 Bebek Mosque 157 Beşiktaş 47, 141-7, 141, activities 147 drinking & nightlife 146 food 142, highlights shopping 147 sights 142, transport 142 Beyazıt Meydanı 94 Beyazıt Mosque 95 Beykoz 162 Beylerbeyi Palace 160 Beyoğlu 47, , 116, 244-5, 248-9, 11 activities 140 drinking & nightlife 10, 117, entertainment food 10, 117, highlights shopping sights transport 117 walks 121 Blue Mosque 12, 67-8, 12, 67, 191 boat travel 203 books Bosphorus 8, 13, , 156, 158 budget 14, 28, 30, 171 bus travel 203-4, 206 business hours 30, 36, 39, 43, 209 Büyük Göksu Deresi 160 Byzantium C cable cars Caferağa Medresesi 75 Carpet Museum 13, 75 Celasin, Izzet 197 cell phones 14, 210 Çemberlitaş Ceylan, Nuri Bilge 199 chemists children, travel with 26 Chora Church 10, , 254, 10, 108 Christ Church 124 Church of St Mary of the Mongols 112 Church of St Stephen of the Bulgars 114 Church of the Monastery of Christ Pantokrator 98 churches 28 Çiçek Pasajı Cihangir drinking & nightlife 136 food 133 shopping 140 cinema Çinili Mosque 151 Çırağan Palace 144 climate 15 clubbing 36 Constantine I 183 Constantinople Constantius II 183 costs 14, 28, 30, 171 courses 33 credit cards 209 Çukurcuma drinking & nightlife food 133 shopping 140 culture 181 currency 14, 207 customs regulations 207 D dangers 16, Depo 124 disabilities, travellers with 211 discount cards 73 Dolmabahçe Palace 143, 143 dolmuşes 206 Drew, Alan 199 drinking & nightlife 35-7, see also individual neighbourhoods, Drinking & Nightlife subindex E economy Efes Pilsen One Love 25 electricity 207 Elipsis Gallery 120 EMAV Silivrikapı Mevlana Cultural Center 125 emergencies 207 Eminönü drinking & nightlife 83 food 82 sights 79-80

2 223 Emirgan Woods 161 entertainment, see individual neighbourhoods, Entertainment subindex Erde, Reha 199 Erksan, Metin 199 etiquette 17, 19 events 24-5 Eyüp Sultan Mosque , 158 F Fatih Bridge 161 Fatih Mosque 111 Fener 165 ferry travel 23, 26, festivals 24-5 Fethi Ahmed Paşa Yalı 157 Fethiye Museum 111 films fire service 207 fish sandwiches 100 food 29-34, 152, see also individual neighbourhoods, Eating subindex costs 30 language opening hours 30 free attractions 28 Freely, Maureen 198 funiculars G Galata drinking & nightlife entertainment 137 food shopping sights Galata Bridge Galata Mevlevi Museum Galata Tower 124, 123 Galerı Apel 126 Galeri Manâ 120 Galerı Nev 126 Galerist 126 galleries 22-3, 28 gardens 28 gay travellers 36, Gâzi İskender Paşa Mosque 161 Golden Horn 164-6, 164 Grand Bazaar 88-90, 99, 90, 8, 17, 31, 38, 88 Great Palace Mosaic Museum 72 Great Palace of Byzantium 74 Greek Orthodox church 114 Greek Orthodox Monastery of St George (Princes Islands) 168 Grenne, Graham 198 Gül Mosque 112 Gülhane drinking & nightlife 83 food 82 sights Gülhane Park 79 Güney, Yılmaz 199 H Haghia Triada Monastery (Princes Islands) 168 Haliç 164-6, 164 hamams 12, 42-3 Hatice Sultan Yalı 157 health 208 Hıdiv Kasrı 162 Hikmet, Nâzım 197 Hippodrome 72-4 history 23, holidays 209 Islamic holidays 25 hospitals 209 Hürrem Sultan 184 I İbrahim I, Sultan 64 International İstanbul Film Festival 24 internet access 208 internet resources 14, 208 İshak Ağa Çeşmesi 162 Islam 25 İstanbul Archaeology Museums 69-70, 69, 76 İstanbul Biennial 25 İstanbul Design Biennial 25 İstanbul Jazz Festival 25 İstanbul Modern 26, 119, 119 İstanbul Museum of the History of Science & Technology in Islam İstanbul Music Festival 24 İstanbul Naval Museum 144 İstanbul Tulip Festival 24 İstiklal drinking & nightlife entertainment food shopping sights İstiklal Caddesi 118, 118 itineraries 20-1 J James Bond 200 Jewish Museum of Turkey 120 Justinian I 185 K Kadıköy 47, , 148, 254 activities 153 drinking & nightlife 149, entertainment 153 food 149, 151 highlights shopping 153 transport 149 Kadıköy Produce Market 150, 150 Kandilli 160 Kanlıca 161 Kanon, Joseph 199 Karaköy 13 drinking & nightlife entertainment 137 food sights Kariye Museum 10, , 254, 10, 108 Kasa Galeri 124 kebaps 32, 31 Kıbrıslı Mustafa Emin Paşa Yal 160 Kıral, Erdan 199 Kont Ostrorog Yalı 160 Köprülü Amcazade Hüseyin Paşa Yalı 161 Küçük Ayasofya sights 79 Küçük Göksu Deresi 160 Küçüksu Kasrı 160 Kuleli Military School 157 Kuruçeşme 47, 141-7, 141, activities 147 drinking & nightlife 146 food 142, highlights shopping 147 sights 142, transport 142 L Laleli 95 language 14, 17, legal matters 208 lesbian travellers 36, literature Little Aya Sofya 79 Little Urfa 95 Livaneli, O Z 197 live music 23 local life 27 Loti, Pierre 198 M markets 23, 27 Marmara University Republican Museum 74 medical services Mehmet II metro 13, 205 meze 30, 3, 29 Mihrimah Sultan Mosque 111, 151 mobile phones 14, 210 money 14, 17, 30, 171, 207, 209 mosques 22, 27, 28 Museum of Innocence Museum of the Princes Islands (Princes Islands) 169 Museum of Turkish & Islamic Arts 74-5 museums & galleries 22-3, 28 music 23, 180 Mustafa Kemal 188 N nargiles National Palaces Painting Museum 13, 144 Nevruz 24 New Mosque 97 newspapers 208 Nicolson, Harold 198 INDEX E-N

3 224 INDEX EATING nightlife, see drinking & nightlife Nişantaşı 126 Nuruosmaniye Mosque 95 O opening hours 30, 36, 39, 43, 209 Orga, İrfan 196 Ortaköy 47, 141-7, 141, activities 147 drinking & nightlife 146 food 142, highlights shopping 147 sights 142, transport 142 Ortaköy Mosque 145 Özpetek, Ferzam 199 P Palace of Constantine Porphyrogenitus 114 palaces 23 Pamuk, Orhan 197 parks & gardens 28 Paşabahçe Patisserie Lebon 127 Patriarchal Church of St George 112 Pera Museum Pera Palace Hotel 127 pharmacies planning budgeting 14, 28, 30, 171 calendar of events 24-5 children, travel wih 26 first-time visitors internet resources 14 İstanbul basics İstanbul s neighbourhoods 46-7 itineraries 20-1 local life 27 opening hours 30, 36, 39, 43, 49, 209 repeat visitors 13 travel seasons 15 police 207 politics 180, population 181 Sights 000 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 postal services 209 Princes Islands 26, 167-9, 159 public holidays 209 R Rahmi M Koç Museum 26, 166 religion 181 Republic Monument 128 Rumeli Hisarı 26, 160 Rumeli Kavağı 163 Rüstem Paşa Mosque 95, 97 S Sadberk Hanım Museum 162 Şafak, Elif 197 safety 16, Sakıp Sabancı Museum 161 Şakirin Mosque 151, 3, 194 SALT Beyoğlu 126 SALT Galata 120 Sarıyer 162 Schneidertempel Art Center 124 seasons 15 Şehzade Mehmet Mosque 97 Şemsi Ahmed Paşa Mosque 151 shopping 9, 38-41, see also individual neighbourhoods, Shopping subindex sightseeing 15 Sinan, Mimar Koca 192 Sirkeci drinking & nightlife 83 food 82 sights smoking 207 soccer 146 Soğukçeşme Sokak 75 Sokullu Şehit Mehmet Paşa Mosque 79 spas 12, 42-3 Spice Bazaar 93, 93, 76 Süleymaniye Mosque 9, 91-2, 9, 91 Sultanahmet 48-85, 48, 238, activities 85 drinking & nightlife 82-3 entertainment 83 food 49, 80-2 highlights shopping 49, 83-4 sights 49, transport 49 walks 78 Sultanahmet Archaeological Park 74 T Taksim Meydanı 128 Tanipar, Ahmet Hamdi 196 Tarabya 162 taxis 205 telephone services 14, 210 Tepegöz, Erdem 199 Theodora 184, 185 Theodosius II time 14, 210 tipping 17, 207 Tomb of Sokullu Mehmet Paşa 115 Tophane drinking & nightlife entertainment 137 food shopping sights Tophane Müşiri Zeki Paşa Yalı 161 Topkapı Palace 7, 57-66, 61, 63, 3, 5, 7, 57, 62, 64, 77, 193 tourist information 14, 210 tours 17, 33 food 13 train travel 204 tram travel 204 travel to İstanbul 15, travel within İstanbul 18-19, Turgul, Yavuz 199 Turkish language U Üç Horan Ermeni Kilisesi 129 Üsküdar 151 V vacations 209 vaccinations 208 vegetarian travellers 33 visas 14, 211 W weather 15 websites 14, 208 Western Districts 47, , 106, 252 drinking & nightlife 115 food 107, 115 highlights sights 107, transport 107 walks 113 whirling dervishes 125, 122 women travellers 211 Y Yavuz Sultan Selim Mosque Yeni Valide Mosque 151 Yıldız Park Z Zarif Mustafa Paşa Yalı 161 Zoe Porphyrogenita EATING A Aheste 129 Ahırkapı Balıkçısı 81 Akdenız Hatay Sofrası 95 Altın Pide ve Lahmacun 95 Antica Locanda 163 Antiochia Asitane 115 Asmalı Canım Ciğerim 130 Asmalı Cavit 132 Aşşk Kahve 145 Aynen Dürüm 99 B Bahar Restaurant 100 Balıkçı Sabahattin 81 Banyan Baylan Pastanesi 151 Bena Dondurmaları 99 Bereket Döner 100 C Cafe Privato Çiğdem Pastanesi 80-1

4 225 Çiya Sofrası 151 Çokçok 132 Cooking Alaturka 81 Çukur Meyhane 131 D Datlı Maya 133 Delicatessan 133 Demeti 133 Develi Baklava 98 Dönerci Şahin Usta 99 Duble Meze Bar 132 Dürümcü Raif Usta 99 E Ehli Kebap 95 Enstitü 131 Erol Lokantası 80 Etabal 151 F Fatih Damak Pide 98 Fes Cafe 101 Fürreyya Galata Balıkçısı 100 G Gazientep Burç Ocakbaşı 99 Gram 132 Gülhane Kandil Tesisleri 82 Güvenç Konyalı 82 H Hacı Abdullah 133 Hafız Mustafa 82 Hamdi Restaurant Hatay Haskral Sofrası 95 Havuzlu Restaurant 101 Helvetia Lokanta 130 Heyamola Ada Lokantası (Princes Islands) 169 Hocapaşa Pidecisi 82 House Cafe 131 Hünkar 126 I İnci Pastanesi 130 İstanbul Modern Cafe/ Restaurant 130 J Jash 133 Journey 133 K Kadı Nımet Balıkçılık 151 Kafe Ara 132 Kahve Kale Cafe & Pastane 161 Kantın 126 Karadeniz Aile Pide ve Kebap Salonu 80 Karaköy Güllüoğlu 128 Karaköy Lokantası 129 Kitchenette 131 Kiva Han 130 Klemuri 130 Köfteci Arnavut 115 Kokoreççi Erdinç Usta 99 Kömür Turk Mutfağı 115 Kuru Fasulyeci Erzincanlı Ali Baba 100 L Lâle Pastanesi 81 Lokanta Maya 130 Lucca 163 M Matbah 82 Mavi Haliç Pidecisi 100 Mavra Meşhur Dönerci Hacı Osman ın Yeri 99 Meze by Lemon Tree 132 Midpoint 131 Mikla 132 MüzedeChanga 163 N Namli 129 P Pak Pide & Pizza Salonu 99 Pelikan Balıkçısı (Princes Islands) 169 S Şanlı Urfa Zama 95 Sedef Beyaz 81 Sefa Restaurant 80 Şehzade Cağ Kebabı 82 Siirt Şeref Büryan Kebap 98, 100 Social 133 Sofa Cafe Restaurant 80 Sofyalı Sur Ocakbaşı 101 Sütiş 163 T Tapasuma 163 Tarihi Haliç İşkembecisi 115 Tarihi Karaköy Balık Lokantası 130 Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta 80 V Vogue 145 Y Yücetepe Kır Gazinosu Restaurant (Princes Islands) 169 Z Zübeyir Ocakbaşı 131 Zuma DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE 5 Kat A Araf 136 Atölye Kuledıbı 134 B Baylo 135 Bigudi 136 C Cafe Meşale 82 Caferağa Medresesi Çay Bahçesi 83 Cihangir Cihannüma 83 Çırağan Palace Kempinski Hotel 146 Club D Dem 134 Derviş Aile Çay Bahçesi 82-3 E Erenler Nargile ve Çay Bahçesi 101 Ethem Tezçakar Kahveci F Fazıl Bey 152 FerahFeza 134 H Hazzo Pulo Çay Bahçesi 135, 123 Hotel Nomade Terrace Bar 83 I Indigo 135 K Kahve Dünyası 102 Karabatak 134 Karga Bar 153 Kiki (Cihangir) 136 Kiki (Ortaköy) 246 Kybele Cafe 83 L Lale Bahçesi 101 Leb-i Derya 135 Leb-i Derya Richmond 135 Litera 136 Love Dance Point 136 M Manda Batmaz 135 Mikla 135 Mimar Sinan Teras Cafe 101 MiniMüzikHol 136 Münferit 136 N NuTeras 136 O Off Pera 135 P Pandeli 102 Pierre Loti Café 115 R Reina 146 S Şark Kahvesi 102 Sensus Wine Bar Smyrna 137 Sortie 146 INDEX DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

5 226 INDEX ENTERTAINMENT T Tek Yön 137 Tophane Nargile Cafes 134 U Unter 134 Urban 136 V Vefa Bozacısı 102 W White Mill 137 X X Bar 134 Y Yeşil Ev 83 Z Zeyrekhane ENTERTAINMENT Babylon Garajistanbul 138 Hocapaşa Culture Centre 83 Jolly Joker 138 Munzur Cafe & Bar 138 Nardis Jazz Club 137 Nublu İstanbul 13, 137 Salon 137 Süreyya Opera House SHOPPING A A La Turca 140 Abdulla Natural Products 102 Ak Gümüş 103 Ali Muhıddin Hacı Bekir (Bazaar District) 104 Ali Muhıddin Hacı Bekir (Beyoğlu) 139 Sights 000 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir (Kadıköy) 153 Altan Şekerleme 103 Armine 104 Artrium 139 Arzu Kaprol 138 Avrupa Pasajı 129 B Berrin Akyüz 140 Beymen 126 Beyoğlu Olgunlaşma Enstıtüsü 139 C Cocoon 83-4 D Denizler Kitabevi 139 Derviş 103 Dhoku 103 E EthniCon 103 G Galeri Kayseri 84 Gönul Paksoy 126 H Hafız Mustafa 104 Haşimi Ticaret 103 Hiç 138 Horhor Antikacılar Çarşışı 104 I İKSV Tasarım Mağazası 138 İroni 139 İstanbul Kitapçısı 140 İstanbul Modern Gift Shop 138 İznik Classics 84 J Jennifer s Hamam 84 K Khaftan 84 Koç Deri Leather 103 Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi 104 L La Cave Wine Shop 140 Lale Plak 139 Leyla Eski Eşya Pazarlama 140 Lokum 147 M Malatya Pazarı 105 Mariposa 140 Mehmet Çetinkaya Gallery 84 Mehmet Kalmaz Baharat 105 Mekhann 103 Mephisto (Beyoğlu) 139 Mephisto (Kadıköy) 153 Mesut Güneş 153 Muhlis Günbattı 103 N Nahıl 139 O Old Sandal 138 Özlem Tuna 84 P Paşabahçe 105, 139 Petek Turşuları 129 R Reşat Balık Market 129 S Selda Okutan 139 Serhat Geridönmez 103 Sevan Bıçakçı 104 Silk & Cashmere 104 Sofa 104 Soy 153 Sütte Şarküteri 129 T Tarihi Beyoğlu Ekmek Fırını 129 Tezgah Alley 139 Tulu 84 U Üç Yıldız Şekerleme 129 Ucuzcular Baharat 105 Ümit Berksoy 102 V Vakko İndirim 104 Y Yazmacı Necdet Danış 103 Yilmaz Ipekçilik 84 2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES Ambassador Spa 85 Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı 85 Cağaloğlu Hamamı 85, 12 Çemberlitaş Hamamı 105 Cooking Alaturka 85 Ferry Trip between Europe & Asia 153 Four Seasons Istanbul at the Bosphorus 147 Gedikpaşa Hamamı 105 İstanbul Eats 153 İstanbul Walks 85 İstanbulodos 105 Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı 13, 140 Turkish Flavours 153 Urban Adventures 85 4 SLEEPING 1001 Nites 174 A Ahmet Efendi Evi 174 Arcadia Blue Hotel 176 Armaggan Bosporus Suites 176 B Bahaus Hostel 173 Big Apple Hostel 174 Burckin Suites Hotel 175 C Cheers Hostel 173 D Dersaadet Hotel 175 E Emine Sultan Hotel 176 Erten Konak 175-6

6 227 F Four Seasons Istanbul at the Bosphorus 176 G Galateia Residence 174 H Hanedan Hotel 173 Has Han Galata 177 Hayriye Hanım Konağı 176 Hotel Alp Guesthouse 173 Hotel Empress Zoe 174 Hotel Ibrahim Pasha 174 Hotel Nomade 175 Hotel Peninsula 173 Hotel Şebnem 176 Hotel Uyan 175 Hush Moda 177 I Istanbul Apartments 174 istanbul!place Apartments 174 M Manzara Istanbul 174 Marmara Guesthouse 173 Marmara Pera 177 Merit Halki Palace (Princes Islands) 168 Metropolis Hostel More Cafe & Pansiyon (Princes Islands) 168 O Osman Han Hotel 175 Ottoman Hotel Imperial 175 R Richmond Hotel 177 S Sarı Konak Hotel 175 Sirkeci Mansion 175 Sumahan on the Water 176 T TomTom Suites 177 V Vault Karaköy 177 W Witt Istanbul Hotel 177 World House Hostel Z Zeynep Sultan Hotel 173 INDEX SLEEPING

7 228 NOTES

8 229 NOTES

9 230 NOTES

10 231 NOTES

11 232 NOTES

12 233 NOTES

13 234 NOTES

14 235 NOTES

15 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 221 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Anne Jaumees, Anne Marie Mingiardi, Astrid Joublanc, Connlaodh MacThoirealaigh, David Munday, Emilie Pause, Fernando Figueiredo, Francesca Voci, Jeff Michels, Ketan Gurjar, Kyle Hughes, Laura Seaton, Luciano Rezende, Tony Boas AUTHOR THANKS Virginia Maxwell Many thanks to Pat Yale, Mehmet Umur, Emel Güntaş, Faruk Boyacı, Atilla Tuna, Tahir Karabaş, Jen Hartin, Eveline Zoutendijk, George Grundy, Barbara Nadel, Ercan Tanrıvermiş, Ann Nevans, Tina Nevans, Jennifer Gaudet, Özlem Tuna, Ansel Mullins, Ken Dakan and the many others who shared their knowledge and love of the city with me. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Illustrations p52-3, p58-9 by Javier Zarracina. Cover photograph: Golden Horn & Süleymaniye Mosque, Claudio Cassaro/4Corners. THIS BOOK This 8th edition of Lonely Planet s İstanbul guidebook was researched and written by Virginia Maxwell. The previous four editions were also written by Virginia. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet s London office, and produced by the following: Destination Editor Jo Cooke Coordinating Editor Kristin Odijk Product Editor Elin Berglund Senior Cartographer Corey Hutchison Book Designer Virginia Moreno Assisting Editors Melanie Dankel, Gabrielle Stefanos Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Thanks to Bruce Evans, Ryan Evans, Justin Flynn, Larissa Frost, Jouve India, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Clifton Wilkinson, Amanda Williamson

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