Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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1 688 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Adele Kilpatrick, Alan Garner, Alen Lai, Andrea Lai, Alex Thomas, Alexis krikorian, Anna Miriam Benini, Anthony Sheppard, Arlene Renney, Bec Goodwin, Cate Concannon, Christian Runkel, Cihan Yörükoğlu, Claudia Tonini, Daniel Britten, David Munday, David Neely, Dianne Hoff & Jim Stiles, Dr Ahsen Hussain, Earl Luetzelschwab, Edwina Mullany, Elske van Lonkhuyzen, Eric Labonne, Erica Bettiol, Erika Chagnon-Monarque, Geoff Davies, Graham Churchman, Hasan Kemal, Isabella Cunha Soares Coelho, Janet Bond, Jennifer Campbell, Joseph Stanik, Julia Ward, Karen Smith, Kenn Clacher, Kerem İpek, Koenraad Janssens, Kyle Uhlmann, Lucie Verreault, Lynda Ozgur, Manuel Porras, Martin Zuther, Maureen Van Duijn, Michael Jobst, Michael Moses, Morgan Mc Daniel, Necdet Celtek, Pau Ruiz-Sanchis, Peter Larsson, Philip Host, Prachi Jain, Rachel Zhou, René Rood, Ricardo Jorge Lopes, Roscoe Ward, Rovena Aga, Sain Alizada, Sarah Österreicher, Serkan Konuralp, Shan Chong, Simon Walo, Susan Sklar, Teri Bergstrom, Xiaochuan Zheng, Yanqin Lin AUTHOR THANKS James Bainbridge A heartfelt çok teşekkürler to everyone who helped me on my journey around the Aegean coves and Anatolian backwoods: in Selçuk, Mehmet, Christine, İlker from Nazar, and Jimmy from Jimmy s; Mr Happy in Kuşadası; Zafer in Bodrum and everyone on the peninsula; the guys at Ney in Marmaris; Metin in Datça; John from Ludlow in Selimiye; Ali in İznik; Şinasi and Uğur in Bursa; Çağrı and Deniz in Eskişehir; Mehmet and Ummu in Pamukkale; İbrahim, Müslüm, Munny and Birsan in Eğirdir. Brett Atkinson A huge thanks to Sahabattin and family in Van, and in Gaziantep thanks to Jale and Filiz for the trip s definite culinary highlights. In the Kaçkars it s always a pleasure to see Mehmet and İdris amid glorious mountain scenery, and around Urfa and Gollu I really enjoyed the company of Mary (and her Mum). At LP, cheers to my fellow scribes and the hardworking editors and cartos, and final thanks to Carol for holding the fort back home in Yeni Zelanda.

2 Stuart Butler Thank you to everyone who helped out with my chapter of this book. In particular I would like to thank Deniz Aşık in Hattuşa. Closer to home a big thanks to my wife, Heather, and children, Jake and Grace, for putting up with my absence again. Steve Fallon Didi madlobat/çok teşekkürler to those who provided assistance, ideas and/or hospitality along the way: Salih Mutlu in Alaçatı; Mamuka Berdzenishvili & Maya Gavrilyuk in Batumi; Ece Alton in Behramkale; staff at Les Les Pergamon, Bergama; Volkan Pehlivan in Bozcaada; Bayram at Sakız Alsancak, İzmir; Mehmet & Ummu Gulec in Pamukkale; Akil Vidinli in Samsun; Mert Kanal in Sinop; and Hasan Şimşek in Ünye. My partner, Michael Rothschild, was a helpful travelling companion for a spell. Will Gourlay Thanks to Jo Cooke for asking me to join the Turkey team again. Thanks also to the authors and in-house team at Lonely Planet. In Turkey, thanks to Pat Yale for gossip, insight and info, to the Veni Vidi boys in İstanbul and the Surkent crew in Diyarbakır. Finally, thanks to Claire, Bridget and Tommy, my all-time favourite Turkey travel companions. Let s do it again, soon. Hayde gidelim! Jessica Lee A huge çok teşekkürler to Ömer Yapıs; Kazım and Ayşe Akay and Bekir Kırca (for cake and great local gossip); Ömer and Ahmet in Kaş; Meral in Olympos; Yakup Kahveci; Beşir Şafak; Nil Tuncer (for Kayseri-fun); Angela Şisman (for getting food-poisoned instead of me, thanks Ange!); Pat Yale; Ruth Lockwood; and Jodie Redding. A special acknowledgment to Mustafa Turgut, whose Cappadocian fresco knowledge contributed hugely to that chapter, and who sadly died while I was writing it. Virginia Maxwell Many thanks to Pat Yale, Mehmet Umur, Emel Güntaş, Faruk Boyacı, Atilla Tuna, Tahir Karabaş, Jen Hartin, Eveline Zoutendijk, George Grundy, Barbara Nadel, Ercan Tanrıvermiş, Ann Nevans, Tina Nevans, Jennifer Gaudet, Özlem Tuna, Ansel Mullins, Ken Dakan and the many others who shared their knowledge and love of the city with me. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, Illustrations pp66-7, pp80-1, and pp224-5 by Javier Zarracina Cover photograph: Rock formations near Görkündere Vadısı (Love Valley), Cappodocia, Turkey, Naomi Parker 689 BEHIND THE SCENES THIS BOOK This 14th edition of Lonely Planet s Turkey guidebook was researched and written by James Bainbridge, Brett Atkinson, Stuart Butler, Steve Fallon, Will Gourlay, Jessica Lee and Virginia Maxwell. The previous two editions were also written by the authors listed above and Jean-Bernard Carillet, Chris Deliso, Brandon Presser and Tom Spurling. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet s London office, and produced by the following: Commissioning Editor Clifton Wilkinson Destination Editor Joanna Cooke Product Editor Penny Cordner Senior Cartographer Corey Hutchison Book Designer Wibowo Rusli Assisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Carolyn Bain, Katie Connolly, Peter Cruttenden, Carly Hall, Gabrielle Innes, Rosie Nicholson, Kristin Odijk, Gabrielle Stefanos, Saralinda Turner Assisting Cartographer Mick Garrett Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Thanks to Bruce Evans, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Jouve India, Elizabeth Jones, Wayne Murphy, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Samantha Tyson, Lauren Wellicome

3 690 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Index A Abana 513 accommodation 22, 26-7, 654-6, 681-2, see also individual locations activities 27, 39-43, see also individual activities Adamkayalar 400 Adana 403-6, 404 Adilcevaz 611 Aegean Coast (northern) 53, , 219 accommodation 174 climate 174 food 174 highlights 175 Aegean Coast (southern) , 53, 219 accommodation 218 climate 218 food 218 highlights 219 Afrodisias , 313, 306 Afyon Ahlat air travel 668-9, Ak Han 312 Akkum 217 Aksaray 504 Akyaka Ala Dağlar National Park Alacahöyük 442 Alaçatı Alanya , 388 Alarahan 390 Alçıtepe (Krithia) 157 Alexander the Great Alibey Island (Cunda) Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Altınkum 214 Amasra Amasya 443-7, 444, Amazon people 520 Anadolu Kavağı 104 Anamur Anatolia (central) 55, , 416 accommodation 415 climate 415 food 46-7, 415 highlights 416 Anatolia (northeastern) 56, , 538 accommodation 537 climate 537 food 48, 537 highlights 538 travel seasons 537 Anatolia (southeastern) 56, , accommodation 570 climate 570 food 47, 570 highlights travel seasons 570 Anatolia (western) 54, , 281 accommodation 280 climate 280 food 47, 280 highlights 281 Anazarbus 407 anchovies 516 Ani 15, 561-5, 563, 15, Ankara 55, , 418, 420, 423, 424, 34 accommodation 415, climate 415 drinking & nightlife entertainment 426 festivals & events 422 food 415, highlights 416 information shopping 426 sights travel to/within Antakya , 410 Antalya 54, , 368, 370 accommodation 322, activities 369 climate 322 drinking & nightlife entertainment festivals & events 370 food 322, highlights 323 shopping 376 sights tours 369 travel to/within walking tour 372, 372 Antiocheia-in-Pisidia 320 Anzac Cove 155, 160 archaelogical sites & ruins 27 Acropolis 429 Afrodisias , 313, 306 Afyon ruins 300 Agora 201 Alexandria Troas 181 Amisos Antik Kenti 518 Anazarbus 407 Ancient Patara 346 Ancient Phocaea 196 Andriake 361 Anemurium Ancient City 391, 398 Ani 15, 561-5, 563, 15, Antiocheia-in-Pisidia 320 Antiphellos Theatre 353 Apollon Smintheion 181 Arykanda 361 Asclepion 190-1, 191 Aspendos theatre 379 Basilica of St John 230 Beçin Kalesi 251 Behramkale (Assos) ruins 180 Bergama Acropolis , 190 Bursa Citadel 287 Byzantine Aqueduct 230 Çatalhöyük Çevlik 414 Curetes Way Dara 605 Diyarbakır City Walls & Gates 596 Elaiussa-Sebaste 397 Ephesus 12, 53, 220-9, 634, 219, 222, 12 history 220 sights tours travel to/from 229 Eski Kahta (Kocahisar) & Yeni Kale 589 Eski Kale (Arsameia) 589 Eski Van 613 Eskişehir ruins 300 Euromos 250 Göbekli Tepe 579, 546 Grotto of the Seven Sleepers Hadrian s Gate 368 Harran 585, 586 Hattuşa , 441 Herakleia Hierapolis 305-9, 308, Iasos (Kıyıkışlacık) İznik City Walls & Gates 282 Karakuş Tümülüs 588 Kaunos 324 Kekova area 359 Labranda 251

4 691 Laodicea , 306 Letoön 345 Levissi 342 Mary s House 229 Mausoleum (Bodrum) 256 Midas Tumulus Miletus 246-8, Myra 361, 14 Necropolis 395 Olympos Pınara Priene 245-6, 249, 245 Red Hall 191 Roman Baths 421 Ruins of Troy 169 Sagalassos 320-1, 307 Selge Temple of Apollo 248 Temple of Artemis 231 Temple of Athena (Behramkale) Temple of Athena (Foça) 196 Temples of Apollo & Athena (Side) 380 Termessos 377-8, 377 Theatre (Side) 380 Tlos 344 Uzuncaburç 396 Van Castle (Van Kalesi) 613 Xanthos Yazılıkaya 442 architecture 28, area codes 21 Arsuz 408 art galleries, see museums & galleries arts 641-4, see also individual arts Artvin Arykanda 361 Asclepion 190-1, 191 Aslantepe 594 Aspendos 379 Assos , 26 Atatürk 632 Atatürk International Airport 135 ATMs 659 Avanos Aya Sofya (İstanbul) 13, 65-8, 65, 7, 13 Aya Sofya Mosque & Museum (Trabzon) 528 Ayancık 513 Ayder Ayvacık 182 Ayvalı 496 Ayvalık 183-7, 184 B Bağbaşı 554 Balıklı Kaplıca Ballıca Cave ballooning 11, 309, 479 Bana 554 bargaining 23, 659 Barhal 551 Basilica Cistern 75 bathroom 664 Battalgazi Batumi (Georgia) 533 Bay of Edremit bazaars 25 Ali Paşa Covered Bazaar 150 Antakya 412 Arasta Bazaar 127, 129 Atlıhan Complex 297 Bakircilar Çarşisi Balık Pazarı 120, 128 Bursa 287 Grand Bazaar 84-5, 88, 116, 85, İki Kapılar Hanı 375 Kuşadası 241 Malatya 591 Mardin 603 Marmaris 268 Şanlıurfa Selçuk 231 Spice Bazaar 92, 128 Tire 235 Trabzon 525 beaches 14, 25 Akçagerme Beach 353 Bozcaada 176, 198 Brighton Beach 155 Büyük Çakıl Beach 353 Çaka 522 Çinar Beach 277 Cleopatra s Beach 386 Diamond Beach 214 Dilek Peninsula 243 Eğirdir 317 Gökçeada 171 İztuzu Beach 324 Kalkan 348, 15 Kaputaş, 348, 15 Kuşadası 241 Liman Ağzı 353 Marmaris 268 Ölüdeniz Beach & Lagoon 339, Olympos 362 Patara Beach 346 Pırlanta Beach 214 Side 381 Behramkale (Assos) , 26 Belkıs-Zeugma 578 Bergama (Pergamum) , 192, Bergama Acropolis , 190 Beşiktaş 102 Beşparmak Dağı 249 Beypazarı 429 Bezirgan bicycling 672 Biga Peninsula 181 Binbirkilise 461 birds 500 Bitez Bitlis 608 Black Sea Coast 55, , 510 accommodation 509 climate 509 food 57, 509, 531 highlights 510 travel seasons 509 Blue Mosque 68-9, 23 boat travel 671, 672 boat trips Alanya 387 Amasra 511 Antalya 369 Ayvalık 187 Bitez 261 Bodrum 257 Bosphorus 24, 102 Çeşme 211 Eğirdir 317 Foça 196 Golden Horn Ferry 105 İstanbul 11, 101-6, Kalkan Köyceğiz 329 Kuşadası 241 Marmaris Ölüdeniz 339, Bodrum 53, , 254 accommodation 218, activities climate 218 drinking & nightlife entertainment food 218, highlights 219 information 261 shopping 261 sights travel within 261 Bodrum Peninsula 19, , 252 Boğazkale 436-8, 437 Bolaman 522 books 159, 618, border crossings Azerbaijan 567 Georgia 560 Iraq 601 Bosphorus Ferry 102 Bozburun Bozburun Peninsula Bozcaada 176-9, 176, 198, 199 Brighton Beach 155 budget 21, 654, 657 Bulak Mencilis Mağarası 434 Bursa , accommodation drinking & nightlife entertainment 293 festivals & events 291 food shopping 293 sights tours 291 travel to/within bus travel 672-3, 675 bushwalking, see hiking business hours 21, 660 Butterfly Valley Büyükada Byzantine empire C Çakraz 513 Çamlıhemşin 545 Çanakkale 163-7, 164 Çandarlı 195 canoeing 42, 346 canyoning 42-3 Cappadocia 11, 55, , 464, 11 accommodation 463 climate 463 food 463 highlights 464 safety 465 INDEX A- C

5 692 INDEX C- E Cappadocia continued tours 465 travel seasons 463 travel to/within 466 car travel caravanserai Ağzıkara Hanı 505 Ak Han 312 Han el Ba rur 586 Sarıhan 483 Sultan Han 507 Sultanhanı 460 Vezir Han 84 carpets 24, 83, 338, 641 castles & fortresses Afyon Kale 303 Alanya Castle 386 Amasra Castle 511 Ayasuluk Fortress Babakale Fortress 181 Beçin Kalesi 251 Beşkapılar 196 Bozcaada Castle 176 Bursa Citadel 287 Castle of St Peter Çeşme Fortress 211 Corycus Castle 397 Erzurum Kale 539 Gaziantep Kale 571 Harran Kale 585 Harşena Castle 445 Hoşap Castle 616 İç Kale 562 Kadifekale 204 Kars Castle 557 Kızkalesi Castle Kozan Castle Kuşadası Castle 241 Mamure Castle Marmaris Castle 268 Rize Castle 534 Şanlıurfa Kale 581 Silifke Castle 394 Sinop Fortress 514 Uçhisar Castle 476 Ünye Castle 520 Urfa Kale 571, 581 Van Castle 613 Yılankale 407 Çatalzeytin 513 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 caves Ballıca Cave Bazda Caves 586 Bulak Mencilis Mağarası 434 Caves of Heaven & Hell 400 Dripstone Cave 386 Kaklık Mağarası 312 Zından caves 319 Çavuşin Çavuştepe 616 cell phones 20, cemeteries & memorials 57 Alay 156 Anzac Commemorative Site 155 Beach (Hell Spit) Cemetery 155 Cape Helles British Memorial 157, 160 Chunuk Bair New Zealand Cemetery & Memorial 156 Gevaş Cemetery 609 Kesikdere 156 Şehitler Çeşmesi Sergeant Mehmet Monument 156 Sinop Martyrs Monument 515 Çengilli 561 Çeşme , 211 Çevlik 414 cherry season 31 children, travel with 49-51, 82 churches & cathedrals Akdamar Kilisesi 610 Altinsaç Kİlİsesİ 610 Ani 562, 564 Binbirkilise 461 Church of St Gregory (Tigran Honentz) 562 Church of St John the Baptist 238 Church of St Peter, Antakya 411 Church of the Redeemer 562 Dörtkilise 551 Forty Martyrs Church 603 Güllüdere Valley 469 İzmir 204 Kariye Museum (Chora Church) 93-4 Keldani Kilisesi 597 Kızıl Kilise 503 Meryem Ana Kilisesi 597 St Nicholas Church Surp Giragos Kilisesi 24 Cide 513 Cilician kingdom 390 cinema 618, Çıldır Gölü 561 Çıralı climate 20, see also individual regions coffee 46 consulates 657 cooking courses 108, 470 Çoruh River 43, 544, 40 Çorum costs 21, 654, 657 courses cooking 108, 470 language 658 Courtney s & Steele s Post 156 credit cards 659 culture 31, 645 currency 20 Cunda Island customs regulations 656 cycling 672 D Dalaman 330 Dalyan 324-8, 325 dance 644 dangers 39, 661-2, 672, Dara 605 Darende 595 Datça Datça Peninsula 19, dervishes 17, 101, 455, 459, 17 Devrent Valley 481 Deyrul Zafaran 605 diarrhoea 679 Didyma (Didim) Dilek National Park 243 Dilek Peninsula 243 diphtheria 679 disabilities, travellers with 664 discount cards 69, 656 diving & snorkelling 41-2 Ayvalık 187 Çinar Beach 277 Dalyan 324 Fethiye 334 Kalkan 348 Marmaris 270 Divriği 452 Diyarbakır , accommodation drinking & nightlife 600 entertainment 600 food information 600 sights travel to/within Doğanbey 243 Doğanyurt 513 Doğubayazıt 565-7, 565 Dolmabahçe Palace dolmuşes 675 Dörtkilise 551 drinks 27-8, 44-8, 639, see also wine driving E earthquakes 651 Eceabat 162 economy 619 Edirne , 144 accommodation drinking & nightlife 149 food 148 shopping sights travel to/within 150 Efes, see Ephesus Eğirdir , 316 electricity 656, 660 embassies 657 emergencies 684 Eminönü 102, 105 entertainment, see individual locations environment environmental issues Ephesus 12, 53, 220-9, 634, 219, 222, 12 Erciyes Dağı Ski Resort 505, 30 Erzurum , 540 Eski Bademli 171 Eski Datça Eskişehir etiquette 23 events, see festivals & events evil eye 177 exchange rates 21

6 693 F Faralya Fatih Mosque 92-3 festivals & events Anzac Day, Gallipoli Peninsula 30, 163 İstanbul Biennial 32, 109 İstanbul Music Festival Kırkpınar Oil-Wrestling Festival 31, 147 Ramazan 23 Fethiye 331-8, 332-3, accommodation activities drinking & nightlife 337 food information 337 shopping 337 sights tours 334 travel to/within films 618, Fırtına Valley 548 Foça food 27-8, 44-8, 638-9, 657, see also individual locations cooking courses 108, 470 language fortresses, see castles & fortresses frescoes G Galata Bridge 92, 7 Galata Tower 95 Gallipoli campaign 629 Gallipoli (Gelibolu) Peninsula 17, 151-9, 152, 17 accommodation 159 battlefields & cemeteries 154-7, 158 food 159 sights tours travel to/within 159 Gallipoli Historical National Park 151-2, Gallipoli Simulation Centre 24, gardens, see parks & gardens gay travellers 657 Gaziantep 571-7, 574 accommodation activities drinking & nightlife food 576 sights Georgian Valleys 552-4, 553 Gideros 513 Giresun Göcek Gökçeada 170-3, 170 Göksu Delta 396 Gökyurt 462 Gölbaşı 579 Golden Horn Ferry 105 Gölköy 267 Gordion Göreme , 468 accommodation activities drinking & nightlife festivals & events 471 food information 475 shopping 475 sights tours travel to/within Grand Bazaar 84-5, 88, 116, 85, Great Palace Mosaic Museum 69 Greek colonies gület 18, 42, 335, 18, see also boat trips Gülpınar 181 Gülşehir 486 Gümüşlük Gündoğan 265 Güzelyurt H Hacıbektaş Halfeti 578 hamams 12, 25, 106 Adana 405 Amasya 446 Ambassador Spa 107 Antalya 369 Armutalan Hamamı Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı Cağaloğlu Hamamı 107, 12 Çakır Ağa Hamamı 288 Çemberlitaş Hamamı 107 Cinci Hamam 431 Doğubayazıt 568 Eski Hamam 521 Gaziantep 575 Gedikpaşa Hamamı 107 Göreme 470 Hacı Hekim Hamamı 193 Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı 24, 107 Ottoman Turkish Bath 241 Sivas 453 Tarihi Bardakçı Hamamı 257 Trabzon 527 Yeni Kaplıca 290 hamsi 516 Harran 585, 586 Hasan Dağı 502 Hasankeyf Hasköy Hatay 409-4, 410 Hattuşa , 441 health 658, Hemşin culture 549 hepatitis A 679 hepatitis B 679 Heybeliada 139 Hierapolis 305-9, 308, hiking 31, Balyolu 556 Carian Trail 250 Göreme 469, 470 Göreme National Park 472 Güllüdere Valley 469 Hasan Dağı 502 Ihlara Valley 500-2, 501 İznik Kaçkar Mountains (Kaçkar Dağları) 17, 41, 543-4, 17 Kayaköy 343 Köprülü Kanyon 379 Lycian Way 14, 41, 345 Mt Ararat 41, Mt Nemrut (Nemrut Dağı) 16, , 587, 6, 16, 546 Sivri Dağı St Paul Trail 41, 319 history 27, Alexander the Great Byzantine campaign Gallipoli battles 629 Hittites 439, 621 Lycian civilisation 347 Ottoman Empire Persian empire Roman Empire 623 Seljuk empire WWI 628 Hittites 439, 621 holidays 661 homestays 582 Hopa horse riding 42 Avanos 481 Cappadocia 474 Ortahisar 488 Patara 346 Hoşap 616 hot-air ballooning 11, 309, 479 hot springs & spas, see also hamams Ayder Kaplıca 549 Balıklı Kaplıca Datça 272 Diyadin Hot Springs 568 Kaplıca 549 Pamukkale 16, , 305, 16 Sultaniye Hot Springs 329 I Iğdır 565 Ihlara Valley 500-2, 501 Ilhan, Ekrem 474 İncekaya Aqueduct 435 İnebolu 513 insurance 658, 674, 678 internet resources 21, 660 internet access 658 Iraq 601, İşhan İskenderun Islam 23, 647, 661 İslamlar 352 Isparta 314 İstanbul 52, , 62-3, 70-1, 74, 86-7, 90-1, 96-7, 137, 7, 26 accommodation 58, activities boat trips 11, 101-6, children, travel with 82 INDEX F- I

7 694 INDEX I - M İstanbul continued climate 58 courses drinking & nightlife entertainment festivals & events food 46, 58, highlights 59 history 60-3 information itineraries 61 safety 133 shopping sights sports 127 tourist information 134 tours 108 travel seasons 58 travel to/from 134 travel within İstanbul Tulip Festival 29, 108 İstanbulkarts 136 itineraries 33-8, 33, 35, 36, 37, 38 İzmir 53, 200-9, 202, 198 accommodation 174, activities climate 174 drinking 207 entertainment 207 festivals & events 205 food 174, highlights 175 shopping 207 sights travel seasons 174 travel to/within İznik 282-5, 283 J Jewish history 204 Johnston s Jolly 156 K Kabak 341-2, 28 Kabatepe Village 155 Kaçkar Mountains (Kaçkar Dağları) , 17 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Kadıköy 101 Kahta Kaklık Mağarası 312 Kale Kaleköy 360 Kalem Island 194 Kalkan , 349 Kanlıca Kanlıdivane 400 Kanlısırt Kitabesi 155 Kapıkırı 249 Kapısuyu 513 Karine 243 Kariye Museum (Chora Church) 93-4 Kars , 558 Kaş 353-8, 354-5, 30, 367 Kasaba 436 Kasımpaşa 105 Kastamonu Katpatuka, see Cappadocia kayaking 42, 333 Kayaköy Kayseri 505-8, 506 Keçivan 561 Kekova 358, Kernal Mustafa (Atatürk) 629 Kilis 578 Kilitbahir 163 kitesurfing 43 Kırkpınar Oil-Wrestling Festival 31, 147 Kızkalesi Knidos 275 Konya , accommodation 458 drinking & nightlife festivals & events 458 food information 460 shopping 460 sights travel to/within Köprülü Kanyon Kovada Gölü Milli Parkı 319 Köyceğiz Kozan Kurdistan Workers Party (PKK) 632, 646 Kurdish people 646 Kurşunlu Külliyesi Complex 296 Kuşadası , 240 Kuscu Köyü 513 Kütahya L Laertes 390 Lake Bafa (Bafa Gölü) Lake Van landscape 27, 649 language 20, 23, 640, accommodation courses 658 emergencies 684 food Laodicea , 306 Laz people 534 legal matters 658 leishmaniasis 679 leptospirosis 679 lesbian travellers 657 Letoön 345 literature 159, 618, Lone Pine 155-6, Lycian civilisation 347 Lycian Way 14, 41, 345 M malaria Malatya 591-4, 591 Manisa 210 maps 658 Mardin 601-5, 601 markets, see bazaars Marmara 53, accommodation 142 climate 142 food 46, 142 highlights 143 travel seasons 142 Marmaris , 269 mausoleums, see tombs & mausoleums measures 660 medical services 679 Mediterranean Coast (eastern) 54, , 385 accommodation 384 climate 384 food 47, 384 highlights 385 travel seasons 384 Mediterranean Coast (western), see Turquoise Coast mediterranean monk seals 196 medrese Bürüciye Medresesi 452 Büyük Ağa Medresesi 445 Çifte Minareli Medrese 539 Çifte Minare Medrese Dündar Bey Medresesi 315 Gök Medrese (Sivas) 452 Gök Medrese (Tokat) 447 Kasımiye Medresesi 603 Şifaiye Medresesi 451 Sultan İsa (Zinciriye) Medresesi 602 Yakutiye Medrese 539 memorials, see cemeteries & memorials Meis (Greece) 356 Mersin metro 675 meyhanes 13, 13 midibuses 675 Midyat Milas Miletus 246-8, 249, 247 mobile phones 20, monasteries Alahan Monastery, Göksu Valley 395, Deyrul Zafaran 605 Dörtkilise, Tekkale 551 Eski Gümüşler Monastery,498 Haghia Triada Monastery 140 Monastery of St George 140 Monastery of St Simeon 414 Morgabriel Monastery 607 Selime Monastery 501 Sumela Monastery 14, 531-2, 14, 547 Yüksek Kilise & Manastır 503 money 20, Morgabriel 607 mosques 636 Alaaddin Camii (Konya) 457 Alaaddin Camii (Sinop) 514

8 695 Aya Sofya (İstanbul) 13, 65-8, 65, 7, 13 Aya Sofya (İznik) 282 Behram Paşa Camii 596 Beyazıt Paşa Camii 446 Blue Mosque 68-9, 23 Emir Sultan Camii Fatih Mosque 92-3 Gök Medrese Camii 446 Gülbahar Hatun Camii 525 Gümüşlü Cami 446 Hacı Bayram Camii 421 Hazreti Süleyman Camii 597 Hüseyin Paşa Camii 581 İsa Bey Camii 231 İzzet Paşa Camii 431 Kocatepe Camii 421 Kurtuluş Camii 575 Little Aya Sofya (İstanbul) 84 Mehmet Paşa Camii 446 Menüçer Camii 562 Mevlevihane Cami 302 Mihrimah Sultan Mosque 93 Nebi Camii 596 New Mosque (İstanbul) 92 Rüstem Paşa Mosque 91-2 Sabancı Merkez Camii 403 Safa Camii 596 Sahib-i Ata Külliyesi 457 Şehidiye Camii 603 Selahattin Eyubi Camii 581 Selimiye Mosque 145 Şeyh Mutahhar Camii 597 Süleymaniye Mosque Sultan Alaadın Camii 368 Sultan Beyazıt II Camii (Amasya) Sultan Beyazıt II Mosque Complex (Edirne) 146 Sultan İsa (Zinciriye) Medresesi 602 Üç Şerefeli Mosque Ulu Cami & Darüşşifa (Sivas) 452, 440 Ulu Cami (Diyarbakır) 596 Ulu Camii (Bursa) 286-7, 34 Ulu Camii (Harran) 585 Yeşil Cami (İznik) 282 Yeşil Camii (Bursa) 288 motorcycle travel Mt Ararat 41, Mt Davraz 319 Mt Nemrut (Nemrut Dağı) 16, , 587, 6, 16, 546 Mudanya Muğla Muradiye Complex 289 museums & galleries 25 Amasra Museum 511 Amasya Museum 445 Antalya Museum 365, 368 Archaeology Museum Aya Sofya (İstanbul) 13, 65-8, 65, 7, 13 Carpet Museum 24, 83 Cer Modern 421 Çorum Museum 443 Dardanelles Straits Naval Command Museum 163 Edessa Mosaic Museum 579 Edirne Turkish & Islamic Art Museum 145 Ephesus Museum 230 Fethiye Museum 93 Galata Mevlevi Museum 95 Gallipoli Simulation Centre 24, Gazi Museum 518 Gaziantep City Museum 575 Gaziantep Zeugma Mosaic Museum 571 Gordion Museum Göreme Open-Air Museum Great Palace Mosaic Museum 69 Güpgüpoğlu Konağı 505 Hatay Archaeology Museum , 399 Hierapolis Archaeology Museum 309 İskenderun Museum of the Sea 409 İstanbul Archaeology Museums 82-3 İstanbul Modern 94 İznik Museum 282 Karatepe-Aslantaş Open-Air Museum 407-8, 398 Kariye Museum (Chora Church) 93-4 Kars Museum 556 Kaymakamlar Müze Evi 431 Local History Research Museum 176 Marmaris Museum 268 Mevlâna Museum Mevlevihane Museum of Anatolian Civilisations Museum of Innocence 95 Museum of Seljuk Civilisation 24, 505 Museum of Turkish & Islamic Arts 73-5 Museum of Wooden Artefacts & Stone Carving 457 Paşaoğlu Mansion & Ethnography Museum 522 Pera Museum 98 Rahmi M Koç Industrial Museum 421 Rákóczi Museum Rize Museum 535 Sakıp Sabancı Mardin City Museum Şanlıurfa Archeopark 24, Selimiye Foundation Museum 145 Suna & İnan Kıraç Kaleiçi Museum 368 Taksiyarhis Memorial Museum 185 Tekirdağ Archaeological & Ethnographic Museum 150 Tile Museum (Konya) Tile Museum (Kütahya) 301 Tokat Müzesi 447 Trabzon Museum 525 Troy Museum 24, 169 Vakıf Eserleri Müzesi 421 music music festivals 31 Mustafapaşa Myra 361, 14 N Narlıkuyu 400 national parks & reserves 650, 652 Ala Dağlar National Park Dilek National Park 243 Gallipoli Historical National Park 151-2, Göreme National Park 472 Kovada Gölü Milli Parkı 319 Köyceğiz-Dalyan Nature Reserve 329 Yazılı Canyon Nature Park 319 nazar 177 Nemrut Dağı (Mt Nemrut) 16, , 587, 6, 16, 546 Nevşehir newspapers 660 Niğde O Olba Plateau 396 Olgunlar 552 Oltu 554 Ölüdeniz , 40, Olympos opening hours 21, 660 Ordu Ortahisar Ortakent 262 Öşkvank 554 Ottoman Empire outdoor activities 27, 39-43, see also individual activities Özkonak underground city 483 P palaces Dolmabahçe Palace İshak Paşa Palace Topkapı Palace 75-82, 76, 78 Palandöken 542 Pamucak 239 Pamukkale 16, , 305, 16 Pamuk, Orhan 95, 642 paragliding 43, 339, 309 INDEX M - P

9 696 INDEX P- T parks & gardens 100 Yil Atatürk Kültür Parkı 575 Dergah 581 Gülhane Park 83-4 Hippodrome Jinan Garden 268 Karaalioğlu Parkı 369 Kültür Parkı Kültürpark 203 Sultanahmet Archaeological Park 73 Tea Garden 534 Paşabağı 480 passports 668 Patara Penek 554 people Pergamum, see Bergama (Pergamum) Perge 378, 378 peribacalar (fairy chimneys) 477 Perşembe 522 Persian empire Phaselis 365 phonecards 663 photography 660 Phrygian people 300 Pınara Pırlanta Beach 214 planning 22-3, see also individual regions budgeting 21, 654, 657 calendar of events children, travel with 49-51, 82 internet resources 21, 660 itineraries 33-8, 33, 35, 36, 37, 38 repeat visitors 24 travel seasons 20, Turkey basics 20-1 Turkey s regions 52-6 plants 650 politics 618, 646 population 619 postal services Priene 245-6, 249, 245 Princes Islands public holidays 661 public transport Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Q Quinn s Post 156 R rabies 680 radio 660 rafting , 40 Ramazan 23 religion 23, 619, 647, 661 reserves, see national parks & reserves Rize Roman Empire 623 roses 314 ruins, see archaelogical sites & ruins Rumi, Celaleddin 459 Rumkale 578 Rüstem Paşa Mosque 91-2 S Sabiha Gökçen International Airport 135 safety 39, 661-2, 672, Safranbolu 18, , 430, 18 Sagalassos 320-1, 307 Saklıkent Gorge 344 Samsun Şanlıurfa accommodation drinking & nightlife 584 entertainment 584 food information 584 sights travel to/within 585 Sardis 210 Sarıhan 483 Sarıkamış 565 Sarıyer 104 Savur 605 scams 662 seals 196 Selçuk 226, 235, 238 accommodation drinking & nightlife 235 food 234 sights travel to/within 235, 238 Selge Selimiye Seljuk empire senior travellers 676 shadow puppets 288 shopping, see bazaars, individual locations Side 380-3, 381 Sığacık 217 Silifke silk 293 Silk Road 460 Sille 462 Sinasos Sinop , 515 Şirince Sivas 450-3, 451 Sivas Massacre 450 skiing 43, 319, 505, 30 smoking 662 snorkelling, see diving & snorkelling Soğanlı spas, see hot springs & spas sports 127 St Paul 402 St Paul Trail 41, 319 Süleyman 89, Süleymaniye Mosque Sultan Marshes 500 Sumela Monastery 14, 531-2, 14, 547 Sütlüce 106 Syedra 390 T Tarsus Taşucu Tatvan taxis Tekirdağ Tekkale 551 telephone services Teos 217 Tepeköy 171 Termessos 377-8, 377 theme parks 239 Thrace 53, , 143 accommodation 142 climate 142 food 46, 142 highlights 143 travel seasons 142 Thracian Vineyard Route 149 time 20, tipping 23, 660 Tire 235 Tlos 344 toilets 664 Tokat Tokat Kebap 448 tombs & mausoleums Aya Sofya tombs 68 Anıt Kabir Gümüşkesen Mausoleum 250 Bodrum 256 Kings Tombs, Dalyan 324 Tombs of the Pontic Kings Tozkoparan Rock Tomb Üç Kümbetler 539 Topkapı Palace 75-82, 76, 78 Torba 267 Tortum Gölü 554 Tortum Şelalesİ 554 tourist information 664, see also individual locations tours 671, 676, see also walking tours, individual locations Antalya Avanos 481 Bursa 291 Cappadocia 465 Fethiye 334 Gallipoli Peninsula Göreme Hattuşa 439 İstanbul 108 Kaş Mt Nemrut (Nemrut Dağı) Phrygian Valley 301 Trabzon Troy (Truva) 169 Ürgüp 489 Trabzon , accommodation activities drinking & nightlife food 529 information 530 sights tours travel to/within train travel trams 676 travel to/from Turkey

10 697 travel within Turkey 21, 24, travertines 305 trekking, see hiking Trojan Horse 163 Troy 169 Troy Museum 24, 169 Troy (Truva) , 168 tuberculosis 680 Turgurtreis 262 Türkbükü Turkish language 20, 23, 640, accommodation courses 658 emergencies 684 food Turkish people Turkish War of Independence 183 Turquoise Coast 54, , 323 accommodation 322 climate 322 food 322 highlights 323 travel seasons 322 turtles 392 typhoid 680 TV 660 U Üçağız Uçhisar Uludağ 295 underground cities 495 Ünye Ürgüp , Üsküdar Uzun Yol (Long Road) Uzuncaburç 396 Uzungöl 534 V vacations 661 Van , 611 visual arts 644 volunteering 665 visas 20, W walking, see hiking walking tours Antalya 372, 372 Grand Bazaar 84-5, 85 İstanbul 108 water sports 41-3 weather 20, see also individual regions websites,see internet resources weights 660 white-water rafting 43, wildlife windsurfing 43, 215 wine 149, 178 women travellers wool 426 work WWI 628, see also Gallipoli (Gelibolu) Peninsula X Xanthos Y Yalıkavak Yason Burnu 522 Yaylalar 552 Yazılı Canyon Nature Park 319 Yazılıkaya 442 Yenice 433 Yılankale 407 Yörük Köyü 434 Yukarı Kaleköy 171 Yusufeli Z Zelve Zeytinli 171 Zından Cave 319 INDEX T - Z

11 702 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity Sleeping Eating Sleeping Camping Eating Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information Geographic Beach Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/funicular Cycling Ferry Metro station Monorail Parking Petrol station S-Bahn/Subway station Taxi T-bane/Tunnelbana station Train station/railway Tram Tube station U-Bahn/Underground station Other Transport Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

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