626 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Index A Abana 501 accommodation 590-2, see also individual locations booking 111 boutique hotels 28 costs 21, 111 discounts 264 language 617-18 activities 26-7, 37-41, see also individual activities Adamkayalar 395 Adana 400-3, 401 Aegean coast 221-86 accommodation 175, 221 food 175, 221 highlights 176, 204-5, 222 history 223 north 175-220, 176 south 221-86, 222 travel seasons 175, 221 Afrodisias 307, 313-15, 314, 306 Ağrı Dağı 549-50 air travel 604-5, 608 airlines 605 airports 21, 604 Akkum 220 Aksaray 492-3 Akyaka 285-6 Ala Dağlar National Park 488-9 Alacahöyük 432 Alaçatı 217-19 Alahan Monastery 394, 396 Alanya 384-8, 386, 4 alcohol 23, 43 Alexander the Great 560-1 Alibey Island 189-90, 204 Altıparmak 533-4 Amasra 499-500 Amasya 433-7, 434 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Anamur 388-90 Anatolia 287-322, 409-50, 517-54 accommodation 287, 409, 517 central 409-50, 410 climate 287, 409, 517 eastern 517-54, 518-19 food 287, 409, 517 highlights 288, 306-7, 410, 518 travel seasons 287, 409, 517 western 287-322, 288 Anazarbus 404 Anemurium Ancient City 388-9, 397, 397 Angora wool 422 Ani 14, 529, 543-6, 544, 15, 528-9 Ankara 411-22, 412, 415, 419, 420 accommodation 416-17 drinking 419 entertainment 420 festivals & events 416 food 417-19 medical services 420 money 420 nightlife 419 shopping 420 sights 411-16 tourist information 420 travel to/from 420-1 travel within 421-2 Antakya 405-8, 407 Antalya 365-76, 367, 368 accommodation 369-70 activities 366-7 drinking 373-4 entertainment 374 food 370-3 nightlife 373-4 shopping 374 sights 366-7 tourist information 374 tours 367-8 travel to/from 374 travel within 375-6 walking tours 372, 372 Anzac Cove 157, 162 Anzac Day 160 Arasta Bazaar 133, 133 archaeological sites & ruins 27, 262-3 Acropolis (Gordion) 423 Adamkayalar 395 Afrodisias 307, 313-15, 314, 306 Afyon 305-8 Agora (İzmir) 201-2 Alacahöyük 432 Alexandria Troas 182 Amisos Antik Kenti 504 Ancient Patara 346-7 Andriake 362 Anemurium Ancient City 388-9, 397, 397 Ani 14, 529, 543-6, 544, 15, 528-9 Antandros 183-4 Antiphellos Ruins 355 Arsameia 552 Arykanda 364 Asclepion 231 Asklepion 192-3, 204 Aspendos 376 Assos 180-1 Baths of Scholasticia 231 Baths of Varius 232 Batık Şehir 361 Beçin Castle 255 Behramkale 180-1 Bergama Acropolis 192 Büyük Mabet 429 Castle (Eğirdir) 316 Çatalhöyük 450 Çavuşin Old Village Ruins 466 Church of St Mary (Ephesus) 226 Columns of the Evangelists 227 Didyma 252-7, 263, 262 Elaiussa-Sebaste 393 Ephesus 12, 24, 226-32, 233-4, 263, 573, 224, 13 Eskişehir 305 Euromos 255 Gate of Hadrian 230 Göreme Open-Air Museum 454-5 Great Theatre (Miletus) 227, 263 Gymnasium of Vedius 226 Harbour Baths 227 Harbour Street 227 Hattuşa 428-31 Herakleia 254 Hercules Gate 231 Hierapolis 310-11, 310 Hydreion 231 Iasos 255 Kaleiçi 366 Kanlıdivane 395 Karakuş Tümülüsü 551-2 Karatepe 397, 396 Kaunos 325 Kayaköy (Levissi) Abandoned Village 339 Kekova 361 Knidos 263, 282, 262-3 Kurşunlu Külliyesi Complex 303 Labranda 255 Laertes 388 Laodicea 307, 315, 306 Latrines 231 Letoön 345 Library of Celsus 227 Marble Street 227 Midas Tumulus 422-3 Miletus 251-2, 263, 252 Monastery Valley 491 Myra 361-2
627 Nemrut Dağı 18, 552, 18, 528 Odeon 232 Olympos 363 Perge 376-7, 376 Phaselis 371 Pınara 344 Pollio Fountain 231 Priene 249-51, 263, 250 Prytaneum 231 Red Hall 193-4 Roman ruins (Ankara) 416 Roman theatre (Fethiye) 333 Roman theatre (Hierapolis) 310, 306-7 Ruins of Sardis 213 Sagalassos 307, 320-2, 307 Sarayiçi 149 Sarı Kale 429 Side 379-80 Sobesos 484 St Paul s Well 399 Syedra 388 Temple of Apollo 252-3, 262 Temple of Artemis 235 Temple of Athena 180-1 Temple of Athena Polias 251, 262 Temple of Trajan 192 Temple of Tyche 380 Temples of Apollo & Athena 379 Teos 220 Termessos 377-8, 377 Terraced Houses 230 Tlos 343 Troy 170 Uzuncaburç 393, 397 Xanthos 345 Yazılıkaya 431 Yenıce Kale 429 Zelve Open-Air Museum 467 architecture 27, 573-6 books 576 Byzantine period 574 Ottoman period 574-6 Seljuk period 574 Ardanuç 536-7 area codes 21 Armenian people 404, 569 art galleries, see museums & galleries arts 577-80 Arykanda 364 Assos 180-3 Atatürk 413, 567-8, 571 ATMs 595 Avanos 468-71 Aya Sofya 12, 66-70, 67, 12 closing days 70 Aya Sofya Tombs 70 Ayancık 501 Ayder 530-2 Aydıncık 173 Aydınlık Köyü 248 Ayvacık 183 Ayvalı 482-3 Ayvalık 184-9, 186 Azerbaijani border crossings 548 B Babakale 182 balloon flights 38, 469 bargaining 23, 595 Barhal (Altıparmak) 533-4 Basilica Cistern 70-4 Bay of Edremit 183-4 bazaars 17, 25, 133, 132-3 Arasta Bazaar 126, 133, 133 Balık Pazar 130 Demirciler Arastası 424 Emir Han 293 Grand Bazaar 17, 85, 133, 132-3 Kadıköy Produce Market 99-100 Kapalı Çarşı 293 Kemeraltı Market 199 Koza Han 293 Pınar Pazarı 316 Spice Bazaar 89, 133, 132 beaches 14, 25 Anamur 389 Büyük Çakıl Plajı 355 Çaka 507 Çalış Beach 333 Dilek Peninsula 248 İztuzu Beach 325 Konyaaltı Plajı 367 Lara Plajı 367 Liman Ağzı 355 Marmaris 277 Ölüdeniz Beach 340 Olympos Beach 363 Patara Beach 347 Sagalassos 320 Sandy Beach 380 Behramkale 180-3 belly dancing 580 Bergama 190-6, 205, 191, 194, 204 accommodation 194 activities 192-4 drinking 194-5 food 194-5 history 190 shopping 195 sights 192-4 tourist information 195 travel to/from 195 travel within 195-6 Bergama Acropolis 192 Beyoğlu 93-9 Bezirgan 354 bicycle travel 608 Biga Peninsula 182 Bitez 268-9 Black Sea Coast 497-516, 498 accommodation 497 climate 497 food 497, 514 highlights 498 travel seasons 497 blue cruises 16, 352-3, 337, 352-3 Blue Mosque 75-6 boat travel 138, 607-8, 608-9, see also boat trips blue cruises 16, 337, 352-3, 352-3 to/from Turkey 607-8 boat trips 41 Antalya 367-8 blue cruises 16, 337, 352-3, 352-3 Bosphorus Ferry Tour 100-5 Golden Horn Ferry Tour 105-6 Kalkan 348 Kuşadası 243 Long Bosphorus Tour 105 Marmaris 277 Ölüdeniz 340 Sagalassos 320 Side 380 Turquoise Coast 337, 353 Bodrum 257-68, 258 accommodation 261-5 activities 261 drinking 267-8 entertainment 267-8 food 265-7 shopping 268 sights 259-61 tourist information 268 travel to/within 268 Bodrum Castle 259-60 Bodrum Peninsula 256-75, 257 Boğazkale 427, 428, 429 bombings 411 books 556, 577-8 architecture 576 history 558, 562, 565, 566, 567, 568, 570, 572 border crossings 605-7 Azerbaijan 548 Bulgaria 151-2 Georgia 516, 538 Greece 151-2 Iran 548-9 Bosphorus 10, 587, 10 Bosphorus Ferry Tour 100-5 boutique hotels 28 boyoz 208 Bozburun 284-5 Bozburun Peninsula 19, 279-85 Bozcaada 177-80, 178, 204 Bozcaada Wine Festival 179 Bulgarian border crossings 151-2 Bursa 291-302, 294-5, 298 accommodation 297-9 activities 296-7 drinking 299-300 entertainment 300 festivals & events 297 food 299-300 shopping 300 sights 292-6 tourist information 300 travel to/from 300 travel within 301-2 bus travel 606, 607, 609-10, 612 business hours 21, 596 Butterfly Valley 341-2 Büyükada 142-3 Byzantine period 574 C Caesar, Julius 561 Çakraz 500 Çamlıhemşin 527 Çanakkale 164-9, 166 Çandarlı 196 canoeing 40 canyoning 40 Cape Helles British Memorial 159, 163 INDEX A-C
628 INDEX C-E Cappadocia 10, 451-96, 452, 11 accommodation 451, 461 balloon flights 469 climate 451 food 451 highlights 452 tours 453 travel seasons 451 car travel 607, 610-11 driving licences 610 hire 610-11 insurance 611 road rules 611 caravanserai Ağzıkara Hanı 493 Cinci Hanı 424 Sarıhan 471 Taş Han 439 Carian Trail 255 Carpet Museum 70 carpets 577 Çarşı 423-4 castles & fortresses 439 Alanya Castle 384 Amasra Castle 499 Ayasuluk Fortress 235 Beşkapılar 197 Bodrum Castle 259-60 Bozcaada Castle 177 Bursa Citadel 293 Çandarlı Castle 196 Corycus Castle 393 Crusader Fortress 333 Dış Kale 197 Harşena Kale 434-5 İç Kale 545 Kadifekale 203 Kalesi (Erzurum) 520 Kars Castle 542 Kayseri Castle 494 Kızkalesi Castle 393 Kozan Castle 403 Kuşadası Castle 243 Marmaris Castle & Museum 275-6 Ortahisar Castle 474 Rize Castle 516 Silifke Castle 391 Sinop Fortress 501 Tek Kale Kalesi 533 Uçhisar Castle 464-5 Yılankale 397, 403 Çatalhöyük 450 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Çatalzeytin 501 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals Caves of Heaven & Hell 395, 397 Çavuşin 466-7 cell phones 20, 599 cemeteries & memorials 163 57 Alay & Kesikdere Cemeteries 158 Anzac Cove 157, 162 Baby 700 Cemetery 158 Lone Pine 157, 162 Çeşme 214-17, 215 Ceylan, Nuri Bilge 580 changing money 21 children, travel with 49-51 Chimaera 364 churches & cathedrals Ayastafanos Church 316 Ayios Haralambos Church 214 Ayios Kostantinos-Eleni Kilise 481 Ayios Vasilios Kilise 481-2 Barhal Church 533 Basilica of St John 234-5 Çavuşin Kilisesi 466 Cemil Church 484 Church and Monastery of St George 143 Church of St Demetrius 242 Church of St Gregory (Tigran Honents) 543, 528 Church of St Jean 472, 486-7 Church of St John the Baptist (Çavuşin) 466 Church of St John the Baptist (Şirince) 242 Church of St Mary 177 Church of St Nicholas 362 Church of St Paul 399 Church of St Peter 406 Church of St Polycarp 202-3 Church of St Thekla 392 Church of the Mother of God 536-7 Church of the Redeemer 543 Dörtkilise 529, 533 Greek Orthodox Church (Mersin) 398 Ihlara Valley 489-90 Karanlık Kilise 455, 487 Kızıl Kilise 492 Orthodox Church (Antakya) 406 Öşkvank Kilesesi 537-8 Pancarlı Kilise 474 Patriarchal Church of St George 93 Roman Catholic Church 406 Soğanlı 483 St Helen s Church 449 St Paul s Catholic Church 400-1 Surup Krikor Lusavoriç Kilise 495 Yenikapı Greek Church 367 Cide 501 Cilicia kingdom 404 cinema 556, 579-80 cities 28 Çıralı 362, 363-5 climate 20, 29-32 clothing 22 Constantine, Emperor 60 Constantinople 60-1, 118 consulates 593 Çorum 432-3 costs 21 courses cooking 109 language 594 credit cards 595 culture 581 Cunda 189-90, 204 currency 20, 595-6 customs regulations 592 cycling 608 D Dalaman 330 Dalyan 325-30, 328 dance 580 dangers, see safety Darüşşifası 438 Datça 280-2 Datça Peninsula 19, 279-85, 19 Demre 361-2 dervishes 19, 126, 443, 446, 471, 19 Devrent Valley 468 Didim, see Didyma Didyma 252-3, 263, 262 Dilek Peninsula 248 diphtheria 615 disabilities, travellers with 600 discount cards 24, 135, 137, 466 diving & snorkelling 40, 277, 326, 355 Divriği 438 Doğanyurt 501 Doğubayazıt 546-9, 547 Dolmabahçe Palace 98 dolmuşes 612 Dörtkilise 529, 533 drinks 26, 43, 153, 179 driving, see car travel E earthquakes 588 Eceabat 161-4 economy 556-7 Edirne 145-52, 146 accommodation 150 drinking 151 food 150-1 nightlife 151 shopping 151 sights 146-9 tourist information 151 travel to/from 151 Edremit 183-4 Eğirdir 315-20, 318 electricity 593 embassies 593 emergencies 21 language 620 environment 585-8 environmental issues 586-8 Ephesus 12, 24, 223-33, 233-4, 263, 573, 224, 13, 263 history 224 ruins 226-34 sights 226-32 Ephesus Museum 234 Erciyes Dağı 496 Erzurum 520-3, 521 Erzurum Eski Bademli 172 Eski Datça 282-3 Eski Foça 196-8 Eskişehir 302-5 etiquette 23 food 48 events, see festivals & events exchange rates 21 F fairy chimneys 467, 469, 476, 481, 482 Faralya 341-2
629 ferries, see boat trips festivals & events 29-32 Alaçatı Herb Festival 217 Ankara Film Festival 416 Ankara Music Festival 416 Anzac Day 160 Bozcaada Wine Festival 179 International Golden Karagöz Folk Dance Competition 297 International Golden Saffron Documentary Film Festival 425 International İzmir Festival 206 İzmir European Jazz Festival 206 Karagöz Festival 297 Mesir Macunu Festivalı 213 Mevlâna Festival 447 Fethiye 331-8, 332-3 accommodation 334-5 activities 333-4 drinking 336 food 335-6 shopping 337-8 sights 331-3 tourist information 338 tours 334 travel to/from 338 travel within 338 films 556, 579-80 Fırtına Valley 530 food 26, 42-8, 208, 205 Ayvalık tostu 188 cooking courses 109 costs 21 etiquette 48 language 46-7, 618-19 seasons 42 frescoes 486-7, 487 G Galata Tower 99 galleries, see museums & galleries Gallipoli campaign 567 Gallipoli Historical National Park 155 Gallipoli Peninsula 16, 153-61, 163, 154, 156, 16, 162-3 accommodation 161 battlefields 158 books 160 food 161 history 154 sights 155-9 tours 159 gay travellers 594 Gelibolu, see Gallipoli Peninsula Georgian border crossings 516, 538 Georgian Valleys 535-8, 535 gevrek 208 Geyikli 182 Gideros 501 Göbekli Tepe 573 Göcek 330-1 Gökçeada 171-4, 172 Göksu Delta 392 Gökyurt 450 Golden Horn Ferry Tour 105-6 Göltürkbükü 273-4 Gordian Knot 560 Gordion 422-3 Göreme 454-64, 456 Grand Bazaar 17, 85, 133, 132-3 Great Mountain 301 Great Palace of Byzantium 60 Great Theatre 227, 263 Greek border crossings 151-2 Greek culture 185 Greek resettlements 185 gülets 16, 337, 353, 16 Gülpınar 182 Gülşehir 472-3 Gümüşlük 270-1 Gündoğan 272-3 Güzelyurt 491-2 H Hacıbektaş 473-4 Hagia Sophia, see Aya Sofya hamams 15, 25, 107-8, 15 Armutalan Hamamı 277 Balık Pazarı Hamamı 367 Çarşi Hamamı 401 Cinci Hamam 425 Elis Kapadokya Hamam 458 Eski Hamam 506 Eski Kaplıca 296 Hacı Hekim Hamamı 194 II Murat Hamamı 290 Kelebek Turkish Bath Spa 458 Kurşunlu Hamam 442 Mestan Hamamı 401 Meydan Hamamı 510-11 Old Turkish Bath (Fethiye) 333 Ottoman Turkish Bath 243 Sefa Hamamı 367 Tarihi Sultan Hamam 213 Yeni Hamam 548 Yeni Kaplıca 296 Hatay 405-8 Hattuşa 427-8, 428-31, 429 health 614-16 insurance 614 vaccinations 614 Hemşin people 527 hepatitis 615 Hevek 534 Heybeliada 142 Hierapolis 310-11, 310 highlights 10-19 hiking 37-8, 316-17 Ala Dağlar National Park 488 Carian Trail 255 Göreme National Park 459 Güllüdere (Rose) Valley 455-7 Kaçkar Mountains (Kaçkar Dağları) 524-6 Köprülü Kanyon 378 Lycian Way 13, 334, 339, 345, 13 Mt Ararat 549-50 safety 37 St Paul Trail 317 Hippodrome 74-5 history 25-6, 558-72 Alexander the Great 560-1 Atatürk 567-8, 571 Bergama 190-2 books 558, 562, 565, 566, 567, 568, 570, 572 Byzantine empire 561-2 democratisation 568-70 Hittites 431, 559 İstanbul 60-5 Lycian kingdom 346 Ottoman empire 563-6 Recep Tayyip Erdoğan s Justice & Development Party (AKP) 571-2 Roman empire 561 Troy 169 Turkic empire 563 Hittite people 431, 559 holidays 596, 597 Homer 559 Hopa 516 horse riding 38, 475 hot-air ballooning 38, 469 hot springs & spas 326, 531 I İçel 398 İçmeler Köyü 248 Ihlara Valley 489-91, 490 immigration 601, 604 İnebolu 501 insurance 593 health 614 internet access 594 Iranian border crossings 548-9 İşhan 536-7 Islam 23, 583, 596 İslamlar 354 İstanbul 58-143, 59, 62-3, 71, 72-3, 86-7, 94-5, 128-9 accommodation 58, 109-14 activities 100-8 climate 58 drinking 121-5 entertainment 125-6 festivals & events 108-9 food 58, 114-21 highlights 59 history 60-5 itineraries 66 medical services 135 money 135 nightlife 121-5 postal services 135 safety 134-5 shopping 126-34 sights 65-100 telephone codes 136 tourist information 135-6 tours 108 travel to/from 136-7 travel within 137-9 walking tours 90-1, 91 İstanbul Archaeology Museums 83-5 İstanbul area 140-1 İstanbulkart 137 İstiklal Caddesi 92 itineraries 33-6, 33, 34, 35, 36 İzmir 198-212, 200 accommodation 206-7 drinking 209-10 INDEX F-I
630 INDEX I-M İzmir continued entertainment 210 food 207-9 nightlife 209-10 shopping 210 sights 199-203 tourist information 210 travel to/from 210-11 travel within 211-12 İznik 289-305, 290 J Jewish history & culture 98-9, 202, 203, 584 K Kabak 342-3 Kaçkar Mountains (Kaçkar Dağları) 523-34, 524-5 Kadıköy 99-100 Kaleköy (Gökçeada) 171-2 Kaleköy (western Mediterranean) 360-1 Kalkan 348-51 Kalkan 349 Kapısuyu 500 Kaplan 239 Karasu Köyü 248 Kariye Museum (Chora Church) 92-3 Kars 538-43, 540 Kaş 354-9, 356 Kavaklı Burun Köyü 248 kayaking 40 Kayaköy 338-40 Kayseri 493-6, 494 Kekova 14, 359-60, 361, 14 Kemal, Mustafa, see Atatürk Kemal, Yaşar 577 kitesurfing 41, 285 Kırkpınar 149 Kızkalesi 393-4 Knidos 263, 282, 262 Konak Meydanı 202 Konya 442-9, 444-5 accommodation 447-8 drinking 448 festivals & events 447 food 448 safety 448 shopping 448 sights 443-7 tourist information 448 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 travel to/from 449 travel within 449 Köprülü Kanyon 378 Kozan 403 kumru 208 Kurdish people 581-3 Kurdistan Workers Party (PKK) 556, 582 Kuşadası 243-9, 244 Kuscu Köyü 501 L Lake Bafa 253-4 Lake District 315-22 landscape 27, 585 language 20, 23, 617-23 accommodation 617-18 courses 594 emergencies 620 food 46-7, 618-19 Laodicea 307, 315, 306 legal matters 594 leishmaniasis 615 leptospirosis 615 lesbian travellers 594 Letoön 345 LGBTQI travellers 594 literature 577-8 lokum 84, 2 Lone Pine cemetery 157, 163 Long Bosphorus Tour 105 Lycian kingdom 346 Lycian Way 13, 334, 339, 345, 13 M malaria 615 Manisa 212-14 maps 594 markets, see bazaars Marmara 144-74, 145 accommodation 144 food 144 highlights 145 travel seasons 144 Marmaris 275-9, 276 mausoleums, see tombs & mausoleums media 594 medical services 615 Mediterranean Coast 382-408, 383 accommodation 382 food 382 highlights 383, 396-7 travel seasons 382 medrese Bürüciye Medresesi 440 Büyük Ağa Medresesi 435 Çifte Minare Medrese 440 Çifte Minareli Medrese 520 Gök Medrese 437, 441 Medrese (Mustafapaşa) 482 Sahabiye Medresesi 494 Şifaiye Medresesi 440 Yakutiye Medresesi 520 Mehmet II 61-4, 564 memorials, see cemeteries & memorials Merkez 171, 172-3 Mersin 398-9 meyhanes 16, 16 Milas 254-6 Miletus 251-2, 263, 252, 263 mobile phones 20, 599 monasteries Alahan Monastery 394, 396 Church and Monastery of St George 143 Eski Gümüşler Monastery 485, 486 Hagia Triada Monastery 142 Hallacdere Monastery 474-5 Keşlik Monastery 484 Open Palace 472 Selime Monastery 490 Sumela Monastery 17, 514-15, 529, 17, 529 Yüksek Kilise & Manastır 491-2 money 20, 592, 595-6 bargaining 23 tipping 23 mosques 574 Alaaddin Camii 446 Atik Valide Mosque 84 Aya Sofya (İznik) 289 Aya Sofya (Trabzon) 509 Blue Mosque 75-6 Burmalı Minare Camii 435 Çinili Mosque 84 Çınarlı Cami 185 Emir Sultan Camii 295-6 Fatih Mosque 90 Gök Medrese Camii 435 Gümüşlü Cami 435-6 Hacı Bayram Camii 414 Hisar Mosque 199 Hızır Bey Camii 316 Hüdavendigâr Mosque 181 İsa Bey Camii 235 İzzet Paşa Camii 425 Kale Camii 441 Kaleiçi Camii 243 Kocatepe Camii 414-16 Köprülü Mehmet Paşa Camii 425 Little Aya Sofya 76 Manuçehr Camii 545 Mehmet Paşa Camii 435 Merkez Camii 392 Mihrimah Sultan Mosque (İstanbul) 92 Mihrimah Sultan Mosque (Üsküdar) 84 Muradiye Complex 293 Muradiye Mosque (Edirne) 148 Muradiye Mosque (Manisa) 212 Murat I (Hüdavendigâr) Camii 296 New Mosque (İstanbul) 89 Old Mosque (Edirne) 148 Rüstem Paşa Mosque 89, 4 Sabancı Merkez Camii 400 Sahib-i Ata Külliyesi 446 Şakirin Mosque 84 Sancaklar Camii 152 Selimiye Mosque 146 Şemsi Ahmed Paşa Mosque 84 Sermaye Camii 406 Süleymaniye Mosque 85-9, 574 Sultan Alaadın Camii 366 Sultan Beyazıt II Camii 435 Sultan Beyazıt II Mosque Complex 148 Taşkınpaşa Mosque 484 Üç Şerefeli Mosque 148 Ulu Cami (Adana) 400 Ulu Cami (Aksaray) 492 Ulu Cami (Divriği) 438 Ulu Cami (Sivas) 441 Ulu Camii (Bursa) 293 Yağ Camii 400 Yavuz Sultan Selim Mosque 93 Yeni Valide Mosque 84 Yeşil Cami (İznik) 289
631 Yeşil Camii (Bursa) 295 Yıldırım Beyazıt Camii 296 motorcycle travel 607, 610-11 Mt Ararat (Ağrı Daği) 549-50 Mt Nemrut, see Nemrut Dağı Mudanya 302 Muhteșem Yüzyıl 578 museum passes 135, 466 museums & galleries 24, 27-8 Adatepe Olive-Oil Museum 183 Ahi Evran Zaviyesi 495 Aksaray Museum 492 Alacahöyük Museum 432 Alanya Museum 384 Alibey Kudar Etnografya Galerisi 184 Amasra Museum 499 Amasya Museum 435 Anıt Kabir 413 Antalya Museum 366 Archaeological Museum (Eskişehir) 303 Archaeological Museum (Kayseri) 494-5 Archaeological Museum (Konya) 447 Archaeology & Ethnography Museum (Samsun) 504 Archaeology Museum (İzmir) 203 ARTER 96 Atatürk Evi 398 Aya Sofya (İstanbul) 12, 66-70, 67, 12 Aya Sofya (Trabzon) 509 Bergama Archaeology Museum 193 Bodrum Maritime Museum 260 Boğazkale Museum 428 Bozcaada Museum 177 Bursa City Museum 292-3 Carpet Museum 70 Cer Modern 416 Çeşme Museum 214 Chez Galip Hair Museum 468 City Museum (Eskişehir) 303 City Museum & Archive (İzmir) 203 Çorum Museum 432 Culture Folk Museum 474 Dardanelles Straits Naval Command Museum 164 Dibeklihan Culture & Art Village 271-2 Edirne Archaeology & Ethnography Museum 147 Edirne Turkish & Islamic Art Museum 147 Ephesus Museum 234 Erimtan Archaeology & Arts Museum 414 Ethnographic Museum (Konya) 447 Ethnography Museum (Ankara) 414 Ethnography Museum (İzmir) 203 Fethiye Museum (Fethiye) 331-2 Fethiye Museum (İstanbul) 90-2 Galata Mevlevi Museum 97-8 Gordion Museum 423 Göreme Open-Air Museum 454-5 Güpgüpoğlu Konağı 493 Güray Ceramic Museum 468 Hacıbektaş Veli Museum 473-4 Hatay Archaeology Museum 405 Hierapolis Archaeology Museum 311 Hünkâr Kasrı 89-90 Hüsnü Züber Evi 294 İstanbul Archaeology Museums 83-5 İstanbul Modern 99 İstanbul Museum of the History of Science & Technology in Islam 85 İstanbul Naval Museum 99 İzmir Mask Museum 203 İzmir Museum of History & Art 199-201 İznik Museum 289 Karagöz Museum 299 Karatepe-Aslantaş Open-Air Museum 397, 404-5, 396 Kariye Museum (Chora Church) 92-3 Kars Museum 539 Kaymakamlar Müze Evi 424 Kent Müzesi 164 Koyunoğlu Museum 447 Medical History Museum 212-13 Mersin Museum 398 Mevlâna Museum 443-5 Mevlevihane 437-8 Museum of Anatolian Civilisations 411-13 Museum of Health 148-9 Museum of Innocence 96 Museum of Seljuk Civilisation 493 Museum of the Ancient Orient 83 Museum of the Princes Islands 143 Museum of Turkish & Islamic Arts 76 Museum of Turkish Jews 98-9 Museum of Underwater Archaeology 259 Museum of Wooden Artefacts & Stone Carving 445-6 National Palaces Painting Museum 98 Nevşehir Museum 471 Niğde Museum 485 Ottoman House Museum 294 Painting and Sculpture Museum (Ankara) 414 Palace Collections Museum 99 Paşaoğlu Mansion & Ethnography Museum 507 Pera Museum 96 Rahmi M Koç Industrial Museum 414 Rahmi M Koç Museum 189 Sabuncuoğlu History of Medicine Museum 435 Sahib-i Ata Vakıf Müzesi 446 Selimiye Foundation Museum 147 Side Museum 380 Silifke Museum 392 Sinop Archaeological Museum 502 Suna & İnan Kıraç Kaleiçi Museum 366 Taksiyarhis Memorial Museum 185 Tarsus Museum 399 Tile Museum 445 Tofaş Museum of Anatolian Carriages 296 Tokat Museum 437 Trabzon Museum 509 Turkish & Islamic Arts Museum 295 Ulumay Museum of Ottoman Folk Costumes & Jewellery 293 Ünye Müze Evi 506 Vakıf Eserleri Müzesi 414 Yakutiye Medresesi 520 Zelve Open-Air Museum 467 music 578-9 music festivals 29-32 Mustafapaşa 481-2 Mylasa, see Milas N Narlıkuyu 395 national parks & nature reserves 586, 587 Ala Dağlar National Park 488-9 Dilek Peninsula-Büyük Menderes National Park 248 Gallipoli Historical National Park 155 Göreme National Park 459 Nemrut Dağı National Park 18, 529, 550-4, 551, 18, 528 Travertines 309-10 Nemrut Dağı 18, 529, 550-4, 551, 18, 528 Nevşehir 471-2 Niğde 484-5 O Öcalan, Abdullah 582 oil-wrestling 149 Olba Plateau 392 Old Town (Ayvalık) 184-5 Olgunlar 534 Oltu 538 Ölüdeniz 340-1 Olympos 362-3 opening hours 21, 596 Ordu 507-8 Ortahisar 474-6 Ortakent 269-70 Öşkvank 537-8 Ottoman empire 563-6 outdoor activities 26-7, 37-41, see also individual activities Özkonak Underground City 471 INDEX M-O
632 INDEX P-U P packing 22 palace kitchens 24 palaces Dolmabahçe Palace 98 İshak Paşa Palace 529, 546-7 Topkapı Palace 76-83, 77, 81 Pamukkale 18, 308-13, 309, 18 Pamuk, Orhan 578 paragliding 41, 342 parks & gardens Gençlik Parkı 416 Jinan Garden 276 Kültür Parkı 295 Paşabağı 467 passports 601, 604 Patara 345-8 Penek 538 people 581-4 Pergamum, see Bergama peribacalar, see fairy chimneys Perşembe 507 Phaselis 371 phonecards 599-600 Phrygia 422 Phrygian Valley 305-13 Pınara 344 PKK 556, 582 planning 20-1, 22-3 budgeting 21 calendar of events 29-32 children 49-51 etiquette 23 itineraries 33-6 language 23 repeat visitors 24 travel seasons 20, 29-32 Turkey s regions 52-6 plants 586 politics 556-7 population 557 postal services 596 Priene 249-51, 263, 250, 262 Princes Islands 139-43 produce markets 133, see also bazaars public holidays 596, 597 puppets 299 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 R rabies 615-16 rafting 40-1, 378, 526 Ramazan 23 religion 23, 557, 583-4 Rize 515-16 Roxelana 565 ruins, see archaeological sites & ruins Rumi, Celaleddin 446, 577 S safety 322, 411, 597-9, 611 hiking 37 Safranbolu 19, 423-7, 424, 19 Sagalassos 307, 320-2, 307 Saklıkent Gorge 344 şambalilar 208 Samsun 504-5 Sancaklar Camii 152 Sarayiçi 149 Sardis 213 Şavşat 537 scams 597 Selçuk 234-41, 236 accommodation 237-40 drinking 240-1 food 240 sights 234-5 tourist information 241 tours 235-7 travel to/within 241 Selge 378 Selimiye 283-4 Seljuks 563 shadow puppets 299 Side 378-81, 379 Silifke 391-2 Sille 449 Sinan, Mimar Koca 118 Sinop 501-4, 502 Şirince 241-3 Sivas 440-2, 441 Sığacık 219-20 skiing 32, 41, 301, 496 smoking 597-8 snorkelling, see diving & snorkelling Soğanlı 483-4 söğüş 208 Spice Bazaar 89, 133, 132 St Paul 399 street art 100 Süleyman the Magnificent 565 Süleymaniye Mosque 85-9, 574 Sultan Marshes 489 Sultanahmet 66-85 Sultaniye Hot Springs 326 Sumela Monastery 17, 514-15, 529, 17, 529 synagogues 202 T Tamerlane 564 Tarihi Kırkpınar Yağlı Güreş Festivali 149 Tarsus 399-400 Taşucu 390-1 taxis 612 Tekirdağ 152-3 Tekkale 533 telephone services 20, 21, 599-600 Temple of Athena Polias 251, 262 Teos 220 Tepeköy 173, 174 terrorism 411, 598-9 Thrace 144-74, 145 accommodation 144 food 144 highlights 145 travel seasons 144 Three Graces Fairy Chimneys 476 tiles 292 time 20, 600 tipping 23, 596 Tire 239 Tlos 343-4 toilets 600 Tokat 437-40 tombs & mausoleums Anıt Kabir 413 Aya Sofya 70 Bodrum 260 Kings Tombs 325 Mausoleum of Halicarnassus 263 Muradiye Complex 293 Sarcophagus of Murat I 296 Sümbül Baba Türbesi 439 Tomb of Amyntas 332-3 Tombs of the Pontic Kings 433 Tozkoparan Rock Tomb 506 Üç Kümbetler 520 Topkapı Palace 76-83, 77, 81 Torba 274-5 Tortum Gölü 537 Tortum Şelalesi 537 tourist information 600 tours 608, 612-13, see also boat trips, walking tours Alanya 385 Antalya 367-8 Avanos 468-9 Cappadocia 453 Çavuşin 466-7 Ephesus 232 Fethiye 334 Gallipoli Peninsula 159-60 Göreme 458-9 Hattuşa 430 İstanbul 108, 109 Nemrut Dağı (Mt Nemrut) 552-3 Selçuk 235-7 Troy 171 Ürgüp 476 Trabzon 508-13, 510-11 train travel 606, 607, 613 trams 612 travel seasons 20, 29-32 travel to/from Turkey 21, 604-8 travel within Turkey 21, 608-13 travellers cheques 596 trekking, see hiking Trojan Horse 164-5 Troy 169-71, 170 history 169-70 ruins 170 tuberculosis 616 Turchia 570 Turgutreis 270 Turkey basics 20-1 Turkish delight 84, 2 Turkish language 20, 23, 617-23 Turkish people 581 Turquoise Coast 323-81, 324 accommodation 323 food 323 highlights 324 travel seasons 323 turtles 325, 327, 389 typhoid 616 U Üçağız 359-60 Uçhisar 464-6 Uludağ 301
633 underground cities 472-3 Ünye 506-7 Ürgüp 476-81, 478-9 Üsküdar 84 Uzungöl 515 V villas 273 vineyards 179 visas 20, 601 visual arts 580 volunteering 601 W walking 37-8 walking tours Antalya 372, 372 İstanbul 90-1, 91 water sports 40-1, 246 weather 20, 29-32 websites 21 whirling dervishes 19, 126, 443, 446, 471, 19 white-water rafting 40-1, 378, 526 wildlife 585-6 windsurfing 41, 218 wine 153, 179 wineries 179 winter sports 41 women travellers 601-2 work 602-3 WWI 566-7 WWI sites 163 X Xanthos 345 Y Yalıkavak 271-2 Yason Burnu 507 Yaylalar (Hevek) 534 Yazılıkaya 431 Yılankale 397, 403 Yukarı Kaleköy 173 Yusufeli 532-3 Z Zelve 467-8 Zeytinli 173, 174 INDEX U-Z
634 NOTES
635 NOTES
636 NOTES
637 NOTES
638 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity Sleeping Eating Sleeping Camping Eating Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information Geographic Beach Gate Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/funicular Cycling Ferry Metro station Monorail Parking Petrol station S-Bahn/Subway station Taxi T-bane/Tunnelbana station Train station/railway Tram Tube station U-Bahn/Underground station Other Transport Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove
Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Jessica Lee Ankara & Central Anatolia, Cappadocia After four years leading adventure tours across Turkey, Jessica moved there to live in 2011 and Turkey has been home ever since. This is the third edition of the Turkey guide she has worked on and for this edition she made a welcome return to central Anatolia s creaky Ottoman back streets and pulled on her hiking boots to trek the Ala Dağlar. She also wrote the Turkey s Outdoors chapter and the Understand features covering Architecture, Arts, People and Environment. Read more about Jess at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/jessicalee1. Virginia Maxwell İstanbul (Bazaar District, Beyoğlu, Kadıköy and Ferry Trips), İzmir & the North Aegean Although based in Australia, Virginia spends part of each year in Turkey. As well as authoring LP s İstanbul city guide, she also writes Lonely Planet s Pocket İstanbul. Hugh McNaughtan Black Sea Coast, Eastern Mediterranean A former English lecturer, Hugh swapped grant applications for visa applications, and turned his love of travel into a full-time thing. Having done a bit of restaurant-reviewing in his home town (Melbourne) he jumped at the opportunity to eat his way around the Black Sea Coast and Eastern Mediterranean. He s never happier than when on the road with his two daughters. Except perhaps on the cricket field John Noble Eastern Anatolia John has been travelling since his teens and doing so as a Lonely Planet writer since the 1980s. The number of LP titles he s written or co-written is well into three figures, covering a somewhat random selection of countries scattered across the globe, predominantly ones where Spanish, Russian or English are spoken (usually alongside numerous local languages). He still gets as excited as ever about heading out on the road to unfamiliar experiences, people and destinations, especially remote, off-the-beaten-track ones. Above all, he loves mountains, from the English Lake District to the Himalaya. See his pics on Instagram: @johnnoble11.
OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITERS James Bainbridge Coordinating Author; İstanbul (Sultanahmet & Around, Western Districts, Beşiktaş, Ortaköy & Nişantaşı); Antalya & the Turquoise Coast James is a British writer based in Cape Town, South Africa, where he contributes to publications worldwide. He has been working on Lonely Planet projects for over a decade, including coordinating five editions of Turkey and writing the first edition of Discover Turkey. He was extremely happy to return to İstanbul, where he once lived and took a Turkish-language course, and to the Mediterranean, having previously passed through while researching a feature for Lonely Planet Traveller magazine. James also wrote most of the Plan Your Trip chapters, the Turkey Today and History essays and Survival Guide chapters for this edition. Read more about James at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/james_bains. Brett Atkinson Thrace & Marmara, Western Anatolia Since first visiting Turkey in 1985, Brett has returned regularly to one of his favourite countries. For his fifth Lonely Planet trip to Turkey he explored the astounding Ottoman architecture of Bursa and Edirne, the poignant Anzac history of the Gallipoli Peninsula, and surprising destinations including laidback Gökçeada and cosmopolitan Eskişehir. Brett s contributed to Lonely Planet guidebooks spanning Europe, Asia and the Pacific, and covered over 50 countries as a food and travel writer. See www. brett-atkinson.net for his latest adventures. Steve Fallon Ephesus, Bodrum & the South Aegean With a house in Kalkan on the Turquoise Coast of the Mediterranean, Steve considers Turkey to be a second home. This assignment took him to that other coast, the South Aegean one, where he stepped back in time at Ephesus, joined a sailing regatta off Bodrum and rediscovered the beauty of the Datça and Bozburun Peninsulas. OK, Türkçe yi hala mağara adamı gibi konuşuyor (he still speaks Turkish like a caveman), but no Turk has called him Tarzan. At least not yet. Find Steve at www.steveslondon.com. OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 15th edition February 2017 ISBN 978 1 78657 235 6 Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs as indicated 2017 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
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