Planet Publications Pty Ltd. İstanbul. All you ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!

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1 Plan Your Trip Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd İstanbul ll you ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go! TONY WHEELER, COFOUNER LONELY PLNET THIS EITION WRITTEN N RESERCHE Y Virginia Maxwell

2 Contents Plan Your Trip page Welcome to İstanbul... İstanbul s Top What s New... Need to Know... First Time İstanbul... 6 Getting round...8 Top Itineraries... 0 If You Like... Month by Month... With Kids... 6 Like a Local...7 For Free... 8 Eating... 9 rinking & Nightlife... 5 Shopping... 8 Hamams & Spas... Explore İstanbul Neighbourhoods at a Glance... 6 Sultanahmet & round... 8 azaar istrict Western istricts eyoğlu... 6 eşiktaş, Ortaköy & Kuruçeşme... Kadıköy...8 ay Trips...5 Sleeping...70 Understand İstanbul 79 İstanbul Today History...8 rchitecture... 9 İstanbul on Page & Screen...96 Survival Guide 0 Transport... 0 irectory Z...07 Language... Index... İstanbul Maps 6

3 MTT MUNRO / LONELY PLNET (left) Mezes p0 Traditional small dishes (above) Şakirin Mosque p5 Modern mosque in Üsküdar (right) Topkapı Palace p57 Famous palace with a colourful history KORHN SEZER / GETTY IMGES NIT ELIMONT / GETTY IMGES eşiktaş, Ortaköy & Kuruçeşme p Western istricts p06 eyoğlu p6 azaar istrict p86 Sultanahmet & round p8 Kadıköy p8

4 Explore İstanbul Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd MRK RE / LONELY PLNET Neighbourhoods at a Glance... 6 Sultanahmet & round... 8 Top Sights...50 Sights... 7 Eating...80 rinking & Nightlife...8 Entertainment...8 Shopping...8 Sports & ctivities...85 azaar istrict Top Sights...88 Sights...9 Eating...98 rinking & Nightlife... 0 Shopping... 0 Sports & ctivities...05 Western istricts Top Sights...08 Sights... Eating & rinking... 5 eyoğlu... 6 Top Sights... 8 Sights...0 Eating... 8 rinking & Nightlife... Entertainment... 7 Shopping... 8 Sports & ctivities...0 eşiktaş, Ortaköy & Kuruçeşme... Top Sights... Sights... Eating... 5 rinking & Nightlife... 6 Shopping... 7 Sports & ctivities... 7 Kadıköy... 8 Top Sights...50 Eating... 5 rinking & Nightlife... 5 Entertainment... 5 Shopping... 5 Sports & ctivities... 5 ay Trips... 5 The osphorus The Golden Horn... 6 Princes Islands Sleeping....70

5 5 İSTNUL S TOP SIGHTS ya Sofya Topkapı Palace...57 lue Mosque...67 Istanbul rchaeology Museums...69 asilica Cistern... 7 Grand azaar Süleymaniye Mosque... 9 Spice azaar...9 Kariye Museum (Chora Church)...08 İstiklal desi...8 İstanbul Modern...9 olmabahçe Palace... Kadıköy Produce Market...50

6 0 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Top Itineraries ay One Sultanahmet & round (p8) Head to ya Sofya Meydanı (Square) M and work out which of the museums and mosques in the immediate area will be on your visiting list. on t miss ya Sofya, the lue Mosque and the asilica Cistern. Lunch Investigate the cheap eateries on Sirkeci s Hocapaşa Sokak (p80). Sultanahmet & round (p8) iverge from the tourist trail and R visit some of Sultanahmet s hidden highlights by following our walking tour (p78. Source some souvenirs in the historic rasta azaar. inner Have fish at alıkçı Sabahattin (p8) or kebaps at Hamdi (p00). Sultanahmet & round (p8) fter enjoying an early dinner, N make your way to Sirkeci, where you can watch dervishes whirl at Hocapaşa Cultural Centre, a converted 5th-century hamam. lternatively, claim a table at erviş ile Çay ahçesi or Cafe Meşale, where you can enjoy tea, nargile (water pipe) and a free (but very touristy) whirlingdervish performance. ay Two Sultanahmet & round (p8) It s time to investigate the lifestyles M of the sultans at Topkapı Palace. You ll need a half day to explore the palace Harem, marvel at the precious objects in the Treasury and wander through the pavilionfilled grounds. Lunch Matbah (p8) serves Ottoman food in a pleasant garden setting. eyoğlu (p6) Explore the streets, cafes and R boutiques of Galata and Çukurcuma, perhaps popping into Orhan Pamuk s nostalgic Museum of Innocence. inner Karaköy (p8) in eyoğlu is the city s new eating and drinking hotspot. Sultanahmet (p8) & the azaar istrict (p86) You ve spent a full day sightseeing, N so why not relax in the steamy surrounds of an Ottoman-era hamam after dinner?

7 ay Three azaar istrict (p86) Get ready to explore the city s M famous azaar istrict. fter visiting the most magnificent of all Ottoman mosques, the Süleymaniye, make your way to the world-famous Grand azaar to explore its labyrinthine lanes and hidden caravanserais. Lunch Grab a cheap eat in or around the Grand azaar (p98). azaar istrict (p86) fter lunch follow the steady R stream of local shoppers making their way down the hill to the Spice azaar. While there, seek out the exquisite Rüstem Paşa Mosque, camouflaged in the midst of a busy produce market. s the sun starts to set, walk across the Galata inner smalımescit (p0) in eyoğlu has lots of restaurants and taverns. ridge towards the eating and entertainment district of eyoğlu. eyoğlu (p6) Enjoy an after-dinner drink and N the view at one of eyoğlu s rooftop bars before winding down at the Tophane nargile cafes. ay Four The osphorus (p55) oard the Long osphorus Tour M (Uzun oğaz Turu) for a one-way trip up the osphorus and then make your way back to town by bus, visiting museums and monuments along the way. lternatively, take the entur vraysa hop-on/ hop-off tour from Kabataş and visit the Sakıp Sabancı Museum in Emirgan, Küçüksu Kasrı and eylerbeyi Palace. Lunch MüzedeChanga (p6) for its terrace and Modern Turkish cuisine. eyoğlu (p6) If you decided to take a 90-minute R cruise on a osphorus excursion boat rather than the full-day or hop-on/ hop-off trip, you can devote the afternoon to investigating eyoğlu s exciting contemporary-art scene. on t miss the İstanbul inner Relax in a casual but chic cafe in Cihangir (p). Modern museum and the RTER and SLT cultural centres. eyoğlu (p6) Finish your day chilling out to N live jazz at longstanding favourite Nardis Jazz Club or relative newcomer Nublu İstanbul. PLN YOUR TRIP Top Itineraries

8 Our Writer Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Our Story beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 97 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and sia overland to ustralia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, cross sia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, eijing and elhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. Virginia Maxwell lthough based in ustralia, Virginia spends much of her year researching guidebooks in the Mediterranean region. Of these countries, Turkey is unquestionably her favourite. s well as working on the previous four editions of the İstanbul city guide, she is the author of Lonely Planet s Pocket İstanbul and the İstanbul and Thrace & Marmara chapters of Lonely Planet s Turkey guidebook. She also writes about the city for a host of international magazines and websites. Virginia usually travels with partner Peter and son Max, who have grown to love Turkey as much as she does. Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd N th edition February 05 ISN Lonely Planet 05 Photographs as indicated Printed in China lthough the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. ll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

9 6 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd İstanbul Maps Sights each ird Sanctuary uddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic uilding Ruin Sento Hot aths/onsen Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight ctivities, Courses & Tours odysurfing iving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour iing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other ctivity Sleeping Eating Sleeping Camping Eating rinking & Nightlife rinking & Nightlife Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Information ank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information Geographic each Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic rea Waterfall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Transport irport order crossing us Cable car/funicular Cycling Ferry Metro station Monorail Parking Petrol station S-ahn/Subway station Taxi T-bane/Tunnelbana station Train station/railway Tram Tube station U-ahn/Underground station Other Transport Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail oundaries International State/Province isputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water ry/salt/intermittent Lake Reef reas irport/runway each/esert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (uilding) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

10 7 MP INEX Sultanahmet & round North (p8) Sultanahmet & round South (p0) azaar istrict (p) eyoğlu Northeast (p) 5 eyoğlu Southwest (p8) 6 eşiktaş, Ortaköy & Kuruçeşme (p50) 7 Western istricts (p5) 8 Kadıköy (p5) 9 Kariye Museum (p5 EYÜP Musevı Mezarlığı HLICIOĞLU HSKÖY OKMEYNI Feriköy NIŞNTŞI Yıldız ORTKÖY Mezarlığı Park OZKURT KURTULUŞ KÜÇÜK PIYLE HRIYE TRLŞI ELMĞ Maçka Park Ð" Ð"6 EŞİKTŞ YILIZ LT HIZIR ÇVUŞ FENER FTİH KSRY SÜLEYMNİYE LLELİ KUMKPI KIRG GLT ÇUKURCUM EYOĞLU KRKÖY Sultanahmet 00 Park SLCK ÜSKÜR İHSNİYE HCİ HESN HTUN KEFÇEEE osphorus Strait (oğaziçi) Golden Horn (Haliç) Ð"7 Ð" Saraçhane Park Ð"5 Gülhane Park Ð" SELİMİYE Karaca hmet Ð" HYRPŞ 0 km #e 0 mile Sea of Marmara (Marmara enizi) Ð"8 KIKÖY

11 8 C #e 0 00 m 0 0. miles sultanahmet & around north osphorus Excursion Ferry f# f# Ferries to Üsküdar f# Ferries to Kadıköy Eminönü # f# Car Ferry to Harem Yalı Köşkü Hamidiye Sirkeci # ï# See map 9 #þ # Sirkeci p # Sirkeci ú# #ò ú# ú# Train Station 5 ú# Hocapaşa #ß Mosque 7 ú# 0 hg şir Efendi Cemal Nadir İstanbul Erkek Lisesi Türkocaǧı Cağaloğlu Meydanı ú# ab-ı li SİRKECİ nkara CĞLOĞLU Çatal Çeş me Resadiye Molla Feneri nkara 0 #Ø Ticarethane LEMR # Sultanahmet û# 7 Nöbethane Hüdavendigar Ebussuud Hükümet Konağı # Gülhane 6# 9 # æ â # # æ İstanbul rchaeology Museums 5 Ü# û# 6 # æ 8 See map p0 ji layköşkü Yerebatan lemdar Kennedy İstasyon rkasi Taya Hatun Golden Horn (Haliç) (Sahil Yolu) Children's Playground Gülhane Park # Topkapı V # Palace C Topkapı Palace Court of Janissaries (First Court) # 8ü# osphorus Strait (oğaziçi) Saray urnu Seraglio Point (Saray urnu) æ Top Sights (p50) ú Eating (p80) ý Entertainment (p8) İstanbul rchaeology 0 Gülhane Kandil Hocapaşa Culture Museums... C Tesisleri... Centre...(see ) Topkapı Palace... C Güvenç Konyalı... Hafız Mustafa... þ Shopping (p8) æ Sights (p7) Hocapaşa Pidecisi... 9 Özlem Tuna... hmet Hamdi Tanpınar Matbah... (see ) Literature Sefa Restaurant... Ø Sports & ctivities (p85) Museum Library... 5 Şehzade Cağ Kebabı... 0 Cağaloğlu Hamamı... ya İrini...C 5 Caferağa Medresesi... û rinking & Nightlife (p8) ÿ Sleeping (p7) 6 Gülhane Park... Caferağa Medresesi Çay Cheers Hostel... 7 İstanbul Museum of the ahçesi...(see 5) Ottoman Hotel History of Science 6 Cihannüma... Imperial... & Technology in 7 Kybele Cafe... Sirkeci Mansion... Islam... 8 Set Üstü Çay ahçesi... Zeynep Sultan Hotel... 8 Soğukçeşme Sokak... C 9 Sublime Porte...

12 9 SULTNHMET & ROUN - SOUTH Map on p0 æ Top Sights (p50) Hotel Nomade Terrace ar... (see 65) ya Sofya...F 5 Yeşil Ev...F asilica Cistern...E lue Mosque... þ Shopping (p8) 6 Cocoon... E5 æ Sights (p7) 7 Cocoon...5 rasta azaar...e 8 Galeri Kayseri... 5 ya Sofya Tombs...F 9 Iznik Classics...F 6 Carpet Museum... G 0 Iznik Classics... E 7 Fountain of Sultan hmet III... G Jennifer's Hamam Great Palace Mosaic Museum... E5 Jennifer's Hamam... E5 9 Hippodrome...C Jennifer's Hamam...E 0 Imperial Gate...G Khaftan... C5 Kaiser Wilhelm's Fountain... 5 Mehmet Çetinkaya...E Lâle Pastanesi (Pudding Shop)... 6 Mehmet Çetinkaya Gallery... 5 Little ya Sofya Tulu... Marmara University Republican 8 Yilmaz Ipekçilik...H Museum... 5 Museum of Turkish & Islamic rts...c Ø Sports & ctivities (p85) 6 Nakkaş...C5 9 mbassador Spa... 7 Obelisk of Theodosius...C 50 yasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı...F 8 Rough-Stone Obelisk...C 5 Cooking laturka... F 9 Sokullu Şehit Mehmet Paşa Mosque... 5 İstanbul Walks... C5 0 Sphendone...C5 Spiral Column...C ÿ Sleeping (p7) Sultanahmet rchaeological Park 5 hmet Efendi Evi... F6 (under restoration)...f 5 rcadia lue Hotel ahaus Hostel... F ú Eating (p80) 56 ig pple Hostel... F hırkapı alıkçısı...f6 57 ersaadet Hotel...6 alıkçı Sabahattin...G5 58 Emine Sultan Hotel Çiğdem Pastanesi Erten Konak... E6 6 Cooking laturka...f5 60 Grand Peninsula...G 7 Erol Lokantası... 6 Hanedan Hotel...G 8 Hafız Mustafa... 6 Hotel lp Guesthouse... G 9 Karadeniz ile Pide ve Kebap 6 Hotel Empress Zoe...G Salonu... C 6 Hotel Ibrahim Pasha... 0 Sedef eyaz Hotel Nomade... Sofa Cafe Restaurant... F 66 Hotel Peninsula...G Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim 67 Hotel Şebnem... G Usta Hotel Uyan...F 69 Marmara Guesthouse... G û rinking & Nightlife (p8) 70 Metropolis Hostel...G Cafe Meşale...E 7 Osman Han Hotel...G erviş ile Çay ahçesi...e 7 Sarı Konak Hotel...F5 SULTNHMET & ROUN SOUTH

13 0 Key on p9 C sultanahmet & around south 5 ÇEMERLİTŞ Göktaş Kat oyaci hmet Özbekler ß# 9 Türbedar Piyer Loti Peykhane ip Sinan Cami Şehit Mehmet Paşa Ka d izdariye Yokuşu hg See map p ır ga Limanı ab-ı li 7 # ú ivan Yolu (Ordu) Klodfarer izdariye Çeşmesi Su Terazisi Kasap Osman Çatal Çeşme 0# ú 8 r Şevkibey abayani 5 Terzihane Üçler 6 7 Şehit Mehmet Paşa Yokuşu Işık 5 ú# İmran Öktem LEMR 9# ú # á 8 0 #ä # Sultanahmet İNİRİREK Nakilbe nt 5 # á tmeydanı # á 7 Cankurtaran Produce #ú Market # æ 6 ksakal Ticarethane 9 # 5 # #Ø 965 Tavukhane tmeydanı 7 8 ú# # ú # æ # æ 6 # ï lue Mosque ß# #ô 6 Küçuk yas o f ami y a C KÜÇÜK YSOFY ß# Kaleci kburçak ksakal ostan rkası Küçük yasofya Çayıroğlu Gelinlik Mustafapaşa Şifa Hamamı Yeğen Oğul Tomu rcuk Sultaniyegah Kapıağası Fenerlikapı 7 Kennedy (Sahil Yolu) C

14 Yerebatan Şeftali asilica æ# Cistern 9 SULTNHMET # ü E ji See map p8 lemdar Sultanahmet Park 0 æ# rasta azaar Torun # ü kbıyık eğirmeni 59 Caferiye ya Sofya Meydanı 50 #Ø # û 5 Utangaç ú# 5 # 6 # ú ya â # Sofya 68 #ä Tevkifhane Seyithasan Mimar Mehmet ğa kbıyık Camii F miral Tafdil #ß kbıyık Mosque # ú æ# 5 Kabasakal Kutlugün Cankurtaran #e miles 00 m G H 5 hırkapı dliye Ter b kbıyık ayram Fırinı Şeyit Hasan Koyu Soğukçeşme ı Çetinkaya # ú 6 æ# æ# Ishak Paşa Mosque #ß yık Keresteci Hakkı Yenigün İshakpaşa Y e ni Saraçh ane CNKURTRN 8 hırkapı İskelesi f# 5 (Ferry ock) 6 sultanahmet & around south Oyuncu osphorus Strait (oğaziçi) 7 E F G H

15 Kazlı Mescit UNKPNİ #e 0 00 m 0 0. miles C Haliç # (70m) bazaar district hg ZeyrekMehmet Paşa æ# ü# 0 # æ 5 Islah Yeni kıl İtfaıye ZEYREK 7 æ# 8 Şehzadebaşı Gençtürk ğa Yokuşu zimkar Langa Hisar ß# 7 Fevziye Mesih Paşa Himmet sya û# tatürk ul Hacı Kadın Im a ede Efendi Vefa Laleli Müşküle elikanlı Zeynep Kamil Kurultay Şair Haşmet Koska Hayriye Tüccarı Katip Kasım Camii VEF KLENERHNE İsmail Sefa lişan Vefa Türbesi ú# r et Sabunh a n Vezneciler İkbal Şehnameci Nişanca ostan Kenanbey Mehmet Paşa Yok uşu Cemal Yener Tosyalı Vidinli Tefikpaşa Molla Taşı MOLL HÜSREV Vefa ü# 0 ü# 5 Yahni Kapan EMİRTŞ ü# ú# 0 ivan Yolu (Ordu) Nişanca Yokuşu Şarapnel MabeyinçiY o ku şu Şemsettin Kazancılar Küçük Pazar HOC GIYSETTİN Süleymaniye esim Ömer Paşa Soğanağa Camii Türkeli Ragıp Gümüşpala æ# w 9 Süleymaniye #ß Mosque Saraç akırcılar Tatlı Kuyu Hamamı Kumkapı Hanı Telli Odalar abayiǧit Kıb Hayriye Hanim Fetva Yokuşu Mimar Sinan buhayat ıshak le Çeşme Prof Sıddık Sami Onar rayıcı Çapariz Siyavuşpaşa Fuat Paşa Golden Horn (Haliç) # ú# 6 ß# ú# ü# 9 RÜSTEM 8 ú# PŞ ú# 58 MERCN ú# Havancı Nargileci Tiyatro Vasif Çınar Semaver Gedikpaşa Tatlı Kuyu Tüğcü smalı Han Çilavcı Üstad rapzade. Prof Cemil irsel Ragıp Gümüşpala 8 #â #Ø 7 GEİK PŞ Sarayiçi icı Neviye Marpuççular THTKLE Fatih amak SÜLEYMNİYE Pide (00m) ú# æ# 7 Vezneciler # LN Ğ 7 ú# ü# 6 9 # æ w eyazıt ú# 0úü ## 56 Laleli Meydanı ß# Mosque Laleli- 5æ# 6 Grand #ß LLELİ ú# Üniversite azaar # # 6 ü# eyazıt- Kapalı Çarşı Siirt Şeref üryan Kebap (00m); Kadınlar Pazarı (0m); Sur Ocakbaşı (60m) NİŞNC KUMKPI SRIEMİR KIRG Sabuncu Hanı arkçılar Çakmakçılar Yokuşu Kadirga Meydani ŞEHSUVREY Tarakçılar Ç ileyciler 50 oğramacı Emin Sinan Piyer Loti #ò 75 C

16 Turyol Ferries to Kadıköy & Üsküdar f# f# ü# #æ Fourth ß# Vakıf Han Spice azaar # 8 EMİNÖNÜ Mahmutpaşa Yokuşu 69 Tarakçi Cafer e zciler # æ üyük Postane 5 00 # ú # ú ß# # þü# 8 ú# #â Vezir Han # ú 9 # á #Ø 7 # EMİN Çemberlitaş SİNN 7 #ÿ Gedikpaşa Camii Hamamı Galata ridge (Galata Köprüsü) Cinci Meydanı Hamidiye şir Efendi Yenicamii Vezir Han E Turyol osphorus Ferry Mengene Hoca Hani Şeref Efendi r Loti Piy e Kadırga Lima nı map hgsee p8 Türbedar Klodfarer Peykhane map hgsee p0 5 6 w hg 7 æ Top Sights (p88) 8 Kahve ünyası... E5 Grand azaar Kahve ünyası... Spice azaar...e 0 Lale ahçesi... Süleymaniye Mosque... C Mimar Sinan Teras Cafe...C Pandeli...E æ Sights (p9) Şark Kahvesi...5 queduct of Valens... Vefa ozacısı... 5 eyazıt Meydanı...C5 5 Zeyrekhane... 6 eyazıt Mosque...C5 7 eyazıt Tower... C þ Shopping (p0) 8 üyük Valide Han... bdulla Natural 9 Çemberlitaş...E5 Products... (see 6) 0 Church of the Monastery 6 bdulla Natural Products...5 of Christ Pantokrator... 7 k Gümüş...5 Galata ridge... E 8 li Muhıddin Hacı ekir...e İstanbul University... C 9 ltan Şekerleme...C Mahmutpaşa Hamamı...E 50 rmine... New Mosque...E 5 erviş Nuruosmaniye Mosque...E5 erviş...(see 7) 6 Rüstem Paşa Mosque... 5 erviş... 7 Şehzade Mehmet Mosque... 5 hoku Tombs of Süleyman and EthniCon... (see 5) Roxelana... C 5 Hafız Mustafa...E 55 Haşimi Ticaret...5 ú Eating (p98) 56 Iznik Classics ynen ürüm Koç eri Leather ahar Restaurant Kurukahveci Mehmet ena ondurmaları...e5 Efendi... ereket öner Malatya Pazarı... E eveli aklava... Mehmet Kalmaz önerci Şahin Usta...E5 aharat... (see 67) 5 ürümcü Raif Usta...E 60 Mekhann...5 Fes Cafe... (see 7) Muhlis Günbattı...(see 7) 6 Fes Cafe...E5 6 Paşabahçe...E5 7 Gazientep urç Ocakbaşı... 6 Sahaflar Çarşısı...C5 8 Hamdi Restaurant... Serhat Geridönmez...(see 6) 9 Havuzlu Restaurant Sevan ıçakçı... E5 Kokoreççi Erdinç 6 Silk & Cashmere...5 Usta...(see ) 65 Silk & Cashmere... E5 0 Kuru Fasulyeci Erzincanlı 66 Sofa...E5 li aba... C 67 Ucuzcular aharat... E Mavi Haliç Pidecisi Ümit erksoy...5 Meşhur önerci Hacı 69 Vakko İndirim... E Osman'ın Yeri... C 70 Yazmacı Necdet anış... Namlı... Pak Pide & Pizza Salonu... Ø Sports & ctivities (p05) 7 Çemberlitaş Hamamı... E5 û rinking & Nightlife (p0) 7 Gedikpaşa Hamamı arüzziyafe (Former Soup Kitchen)... ÿ Sleeping (p76) 6 Erenler Nargile ve Çay 7 urckin Suites Hotel... E6 ahçesi Hayriye Hanım Konağı...C 7 Ethem Tezçakar Kahveci Saruhan Hotel...7 bazaar district E

17 Key on p6 C Elmedağ Yedi Kuyular beyoğlu northeast Yenişehir ereboyu alık Taksim OLPERE Tulumba Farabi bd ülhak Hamit Çorbacı Ömer Hayyam TRLŞI Kasımpaşa Stadium Refik Saydam Meşrutiyet Emin Cami ynali Çeşme TEPEŞI rslan şıklar Meydanı # ú 5 # ú 9 alyoz Orhan dli paydin smalımescit Gönül S k SMLIMESCİT # # Hamalbaşı # û Tarlabaşı ul # ú 6 # ý6 6 Ü# # æ # æ 6 # æ uduodaları # û # ú #ô GLTSRY 7 # ü #ò # ú # û 8 #â Galatasaray 8 # ü # û Lycée 8 0 # ý # æ Perükar Çik Kalyoncu K ullak İstiklal Eski Çiçekçi Nur-i Zıya Postacılar alo S k Yeniçarşı Tomtom Kaptan See map p8 ji Halas Yeşilçam H ayriy e Taksim Fırını Turnacıb oğazkesen algıç Süslü Saksı S k Sakız ğacı a şı ostanbaşı C Nane Öğüt yhan Işık Çukurcuma Sadri İman dnan Koca ğa # ú 6# û # ú # æ # û 9 lışık 8# þ Taktaki Yokuşu Faikp aşa Kadiriler Yoku şu # ý 7 ltıpatlar Palaska ekar Hasnun Galip # ú 0 Liva Kasatura ltin ilezşk Kurabiye ÇUKURCUM Hocazade Maç # ú Küçük Parmak Kapı Güllabici Sıraselviler Matara karsu Yokuşu

18 lı 5 E Ölçek F #e miles 00 m G H Cumhuriyet uvardibi Lamartin Şehit Muhtar ey Recep Paşa ydede Topçu ELMĞ sker Ocağı Gezi Park Taşkışla Miralay Şefik ey Gazhan e ostan Maçka Park Kadırgalar JK Inönü Stadium ostan Gazhanesi beyoğlu northeast Taksim Meydanı İstiklal Taksim # æ # # TKSİM # ú# 9 ünya Sağlık Mete # æ İsmet İnönü ümen ağ Odal arı Hacı İzzet Paşa Osman Muhtar Kamil Meşelik illurcu 9 û# û# û# Oba akraç rslan Yatağı Soğancı û# Yeni Yuva CİHNGİR Kazancı aşı Camii Havyar Lenger Sağıroğlu Sormagir Cihangir Susam Kumrulu Pembe Somuncu İlyas Çelebi Güneşli FINIKLI Tavuk Uçmaz Özoğ ul Kutlu ol henk Sokak lçakdam Selime Hatun Camii Mebusan Yokuşu Selime Saray rkası # Fındıklı Meclis-i Mebusan Necatibey Çifte Vav GÜMÜŞSUYU KTŞ entur vrasya osphorus Cruises f# entur vraysa Ferries to Üsküdar & the Princes' Islands f# # Kabataş # Kabataş us Stop # (Southbound uses) Kabataş us Stop # (Northbound uses) f# Ferries to f# Princes' Islands Sea us Terminal osphorus Strait (oğaziçi) E F G H

19 6 beyoğlu northeast EYOĞLU - NORTHEST Map on p æ Top Sights (p8) 5 igudi... İstiklal desi...c5 6 Club Hazzo Pulo Çay ahçesi...5 æ Sights (p0) 8 Indigo...6 kbank rt Centre... 9 Kiki... E5 tatürk Cultural Centre...F 0 Litera...6 vrupa Pasajı...5 Manda atmaz alık Pazarı...5 MiniMüzikHol... E6 6 Çiçek Pasajı...5 Şarlo Cafe Pub...(see 5) 7 Galerı pel...c6 Tek Yön... E5 8 Galerı Nev...6 Urban...C5 9 Pera Museum...6 Republic Monument... (see ) ý Entertainment (p7) 0 SLT eyoğlu Garajistanbul...6 Taksim Meydanı...E 6 Jolly Joker... C5 Üç Horan Ermeni Kilisesi Munzur Cafe & ar... 5 ú Eating (p8) þ Shopping (p8) Çokçok La Turca... 5 Çukur Meyhane...C5 9 li Muhıddin Hacı ekir... 5 Enstitü eyoğlu Olgunlaşma Enstıtüsü... 6 Hacı bdullah...c Leyla Eski Eşya Pazarlama İnci Pastanesi... Mephisto...C5 8 Kafe ra...6 Nahıl... 9 Kitchenette...E Petek Turşuları Klemuri Reşat alık Market... 5 Social Sütte Şarküteri... 5 Zübeyir Ocakbaşı... 7 Tarihi eyoğlu Ekmek Fırını...5 Üç Yıldız Şekerleme... (see 6) û rinking & Nightlife (p) (see 8) Ø Sports & ctivities (p0) 5 Kat...E6 Istanbul Culinary Institute...(see 5) raf...c

20 7 EYOĞLU - SOUTHWEST Map on p8 æ Top Sights (p9) 5 em... İstanbul Modern...F 6 FerahFeza...E 7 Karabatak... E æ Sights (p0) 8 Leb-i erya... rab Mosque... Leb-i erya Richmond... (see 80) RTER... 9 Mavra... Christ Church... Mikla...(see 79) 5 epo... E 50 Münferit... E 6 Elipsis Gallery...E NuTeras...(see 0) 7 Galata Mevlevi Museum...C 5 Off Pera...C 8 Galata Tower...C 5 Sensus Wine ar...c 9 Galeri Manâ...E 5 Smyrna... F 0 Galerist...C 5 Tophane Nargile Cafes...F Jewish Museum of Turkey...C5 55 Unter...E Kasa Galeri...C 56 White Mill...G Museum of Innocence...E X ar...(see 65) Patisserie Lebon...C 5 Pera Palace Hotel...C ý Entertainment (p7) 6 SLT Galata...C5 57 abylon... C 7 Schneidertempel rt Center...C Galata Mevlevi Museum...(see 7) 58 Nardis Jazz Club...C ú Eating (p8) 59 Nublu İstanbul...C 8 heste... Salon...(see 65) 9 ntiochia...c 0 smalı Canım Ciğerim...C þ Shopping (p8) smalı Cavit...C 60 rtrium...c Cafe Privato...C 6 rzu Kaprol... C atlı Maya...F 6 errin kyüz...g elicatessan...c 6 enizler Kitabevi... 5 emeti... G 6 Hiç... 6 uble Meze ar... C 65 İKSV Tasarım Mağazası... 7 Fürreyya Galata alıkçısı...c 66 İroni...C 8 Gram...C 67 İstanbul Kitapçısı... 9 Helvetia Lokanta...C 68 İstanbul Modern Gift Shop...F 0 House Cafe...C 69 La Cave Wine Shop... F İstanbul Modern Cafe/Restaurant... F 70 Lale Plak...C Jash...G 7 Mariposa...G Journey...F 7 Old Sandal... C Kahve 6...F 7 Paşabahçe... 5 Karaköy Güllüoğlu Selda Okutan...E 6 Karaköy Lokantası...E 75 Tezgah lley...c 7 Kiva Han...C 8 Lokanta Maya...E Ø Sports & ctivities (p0) 9 Meze by Lemon Tree... C 76 Kılıç li Paşa Hamamı...E 0 Midpoint... Mikla...(see 79) ÿ Sleeping (p76) Namlı Galateia Residence... Sofyalı 9...C 78 Has Han Galata... C Tarihi Karaköy alık Lokantası...C5 79 Marmara Pera...C 80 Richmond Hotel...C û rinking & Nightlife (p) 8 TomTom Suites... tölye Kuledıbı...C 8 Vault Karaköy...C5 aylo...(see 8) 8 Witt Istanbul Hotel...F Cihangir...(see ) 8 World House Hostel...C EYOĞLU SOUTHWEST

21 8 beyoğlu southwest Key on p7 Hasan Paşa Park Evliya Çelebi nbar rkası zapkapı Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Camii #ß 5 6 Cevahir Çikmazi Tali Havuzbaşı eǧirmen Paşa Çıplağı Golden Horn (Haliç) Yolcuzade Yelkenciler Hediye #ß C TEPEŞI # ú 67 smalımescit 0 0 ò# # ú # # ú # û 6 ú 5 # ú 0 # ú SMLIMESCİT 57# ý 80 Re fik Saydam # ú 9 8 # ú # ú # Şişhane 9 # ú TÜNEL # ú # Tünel # û edrettin 0 Meydanı 8 # # # Şişhane Tünel 77 (Upper 7 ŞİŞHNE # Station) Ü# Şişhane 9 60 # ü # ú Serdar-ı 8 Ekrem Fütuhat ik Mürver li aba Şişhane Yolcuzade İskender Yanıkkapı Galata Mahkemesi Nafe Taflan Tutskuk akir Tepebaşı Tepebaşı karca yni li aba Okçu Musa Şimal Hoca Hanim Tersane Zıyalı Kuyu Zincirli Han Perşembe Pazarı Meşruti yet üyük Hendek Laleli Çeşm e S k ankalar Kürekçiler Jurnal Ilk elediye # û 58 # ý #æ 6 Fermeneciler # ú # ú # ú # û Galata # á 8 Meydanı # Karaköy Fish Market 66 Hacı # ý illur alyoz Orhan dli paydin Minare Camondo Stairs Camii Galipdede 8 # Tünel (Lower ò# # ú # Karaköy Station) Turyol Ferries to Kadıköy & Üsküdar w w f# Gönül İstiklal li Sögüt Şahkulu ostan Yü ksek Ka ldırım Karaköy Postacıl a Tatar eyi lageyik ibek li Hoca Maliye Necatibey r Lüleci H endek Gümrük Karaköy Meydanı f# f# Haliç (Golden Horn) Ferries Ferries to Üsküdar & Eyüp GLT 8 Kumbaracı Yokuşu Fevzi 6 Kemeraltı rapoğlan Rıhtım ji See map p EYOĞLU Camcı Örmealtı Haci Mimi Külhanı Hoca Tahsin # ü 5 5 # ú # ú KRKÖY Kemankeş f# Ferries to Kadıköy Galata ridge (Galata Köprüsü) 7 SRIEMİR Ragıp Gümüşpala C

22 9 #æ 5 50 û# ostaniçi Cami Karabaş eresi Ka rabaş Tophane Tulumbacı # Sıtkı 9 ü# 7 55 û# 7 6 Necatibey Türkgücü. Set 76 #Ø Murakıp # 6 6 û# ú# ú# f ï # # Karaköy 8 Passenger Terminal Mumhane ostanbaşı oğazkesen E Çukurcuma algıç Tombaz Palaska Kadiriler Yokuşu li Paşa Medresesi li Paşa eğirmeni #e miles 00 m F G H ú# Firuz #ß ğa 69 Camii ú# 56 7 û# ú# 5 6 ú# 5 #ß Cihangir û# Camii Children's ú# CİHNGİR Playground # Fındıklı # Kasatura ğa Hamamı enizcıler Kemankeş ltin ilezşk ata rya #ÿ 8 efterdar Yokuşu Tophane İskele Sıraselviler Mimar Sinan Fine rts University ü# 5 68 karsu Yokuşu TOPHNE nahtar Coşkun Yeni Yuva Sanatkarlar Sanatkarlar Mektebi â # ú# İstanbul Modern akraç Enli Yokuşu #â ntrepo 5 Lenger Susam Güneşli Kumrulu İlyas Çelebi osphorus Strait (oğaziçi) Cihangir Samanyolu FINIKLI Meclis-i Mebusan Ismail ümbüllü 5 beyoğlu southwest 6 7 E F G H

23 50 C TEŞVİKİYE Palanga eşiktaş, Ortaköy & Kuruçeşme 5 Ihlamur-Teşvikiye Yolu MEŞRUTIYET eryadil Muradiye eresi Muradiye ayırı Kalıpçı Taşlık Park Nüzhetiye olm abahçe Odalar Mısırlı Hattat Tah sin VİŞNEZE ú# Ihlamur eresi izi Süleyman Seba (Spor) a hç V # olmabahçe Palace Uzuncaova Misirlibahce karetler # us Stop arış Ful ya eresi bbasağa Park ltintaş Jandarma Mektebi Ortabahçe Ihlamur-Yıldız ıl h a n Maşuklar eşiktaş Çömezler Selamlık Köyiçi Cedidiye Yıldız Posta kdoğan İskele arbaros ul Mazharpaşa Eski Yıldız 8 Ihlamur-Yıldız Yıldız Serencebey Yokuşu Es kikonak sariye Çitlenbik Çırağan EŞİKTŞ ahçeşehir Unv # #ÿ us Stop ü# f# entur Ferrries #ô f# to Üsküdar Ferries to Üsküdar, Kadıköy & the osphorus C Müvezzi Yıldız Park YILIZ 7 # ü 6 # 5 û# # V# Çırağan us Stop æ Top Sights (p) 7 Yıldız Porselen Fabrikası... E olmabahçe Palace Yıldız Şale...C æ Sights (p) ú Eating (p5) Çırağan Palace... 9 anyan...f İstanbul Naval Museum...5 House Cafe...(see 9) National Palaces Painting Museum Kitchenette...F 5 Ortaköy Mosque...G Kümpir & Waffle Stands...G 6 Yıldız Park... Vogue...

24 5 E F #e m miles G H KURUÇEŞME # û 9 7 #æ Musevi Mesarlığı Çevirmeci Fıstıklı Köşk Sarıbal i Ya hya Ef end Kabalak Lozan # Yahya Efendi us Stop MECİİYE Sehit Nuri Pamir Çevir meci Gültekin S k Ortaköy ereboyu Ortaköy us Stop # #ÿ 0 ORTKÖY # û6 0# ú # ú # # ú 9 Kabataş # ú f# #ß 5 Lisesi us Stop Ferries to Eminönü # û 8 Muallim Naci osphorus ridge (oğaziçi Köprüsü) eşiktaş, Ortaköy & Kuruçeşme osphorus Strait (oğaziçi) 5 E F Zuma... F Ø Sports & ctivities (p7) Four Seasons Istanbul at the û rinking & Nightlife (p6) osphorus...(see ) Cafes & ars...c 5 Çırağan Palace Kempinski Hotel... ÿ Sleeping (p76) 6 Kiki...F 0 rmaggan osporus Suites...G 7 Malta Köşkü... Four Seasons Istanbul at the 8 Reina... G osphorus... 9 Sortie... H G H

25 5 western districts ynalıkavak Hasköy w w SULUKULE ß # #æ # EİRNEKPI â # # ú ERVIŞ LI VCI EY LİKHNE EYCEĞİZ KSIM GÜNNİ HIZIR ÇVUŞ Old Galata ridge yvansaray Varul ervișzade İbr ahim Ebe Çınçınlı Ceşme Şișhane C ebecibaşı LT yvansaray iye Püskülcü Meşatlık # ú Vodina Çilingir Savaklar Golden Horn (Haliç) Kariye Camii Karagümrük Stadium Ü # Paşa Hamamı ür Otakçıbaşı irli Gevg ükkan Hoca Çakır Phanar Greek Orthodox College Ü # #â ÇRŞM FENER Çimen ß # Üú ## Hacı İbrahim Zülüflü Topkapi Edirnekapı bdülezelpaşa Kiremit raman Çeşmesi Kesmek aya Ca d raman li Kuşçu lsok Kefevi Müftü Incib e Fethiye Soguk T ulumba Kasim Odalar Fevzi Paşa Eroğlu Kariye Türbe Kafesçi Yumni İstanbul Çevre Yolu Eğri kapı Kantarcı li Mürsel Paşa Vaiz Edirnekapı Rami Mismarcı Şair Niyazi Neşter Sehıt Ümit Uçan Camcı Çeşmesi Yokuş olapli ostan ilmaç raman Çukuru Salma Tomruk N Kelebek Prof Naci Şensoy C ad â # Kariye Museum (Chora Church) C â # ß # Fodlacı Karucu Sarmaşık iyazi Misri İskelesi yvansaray (Ferry ock) #e 0 00 m 0 0. miles C E E æ Top Sights (p08) Kariye Museum (Chora Church)... æ Sights (p) Church of St Mary of the Mongols... Church of St Stephen of the ulgars... Fethiye Museum... C 5 Gül Mosque...E 6 Mihrimah Sultan Hamamı... 7 Mihrimah Sultan Mosque... 8 Palace of Constantine Porphyrogenitus... 9 Patriarchal Church of St George... 0 Yavuz Sultan Selim Mosque... ú Eating (p5) sitane... Köfteci rnavut... Tarihi Haliç İşkembecisi... Eyüp (.km) (00m)